Decanter über:
Gewürztraminer Lunare
Two years in a row for a Best in Show Gewurztraminer from Italy’s Alto Adige – but in contrast to last year’s succulent passito laureate, this year’s pick is a dry wine. The secret to great Gewurztraminer is giving it plenty of ripening time; this is not a wine in which acidity need necessarily play a significant role, as its balance is going to be supplied by texture, perfume, unction, sometimes tannin and ‘noble’ bitterness. Acidity does, as it happens, feature as a part of this wine’s make up, though in soft style, fully bonded with the wine’s gentle orchard fruits; that means that its texture is midweight rather than unctuous, and you can sense the mountains and the fresh air all about. It’s commanding but harmonious aromas make as much allusion to flowers as they do to gingery spices, and the wine is more vinous than tannic. That soft-falling bitterness is there on the finish, sweeping up after the fruit and keeping the wine’s passage through the mouth clean, neat and tidy.
