Chateau Croix de Labrie Grand Cru Classe 2023

Colin Hay über: Chateau Croix de Labrie Grand Cru Classe

(Saint Émilion; 85% Merlot; 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; 5% Cabernet Franc; a final yield of 27 hl/ha, seemingly low primarily because of the average age of the vines at 60 years or so; pH 3.41; 14.2% alcohol; tasted twice, the second time at the property). This sings in harmony with the wonderful cool limestone of this part of the plateau. A little closed at first when tasted the first time, but much more open the second. Even when closed we learn much from the evolution of the wine as it slowly unfurls like a fern frond. Glorious aromatically, with lovely and very distinctive subtle but intense violet, pink rose and iris notes, a little graphite and black cherry. We are in the parfumier’s laboratory. Wild blueberries, damson skin and a little blackcurrant. Griotte cherry, blood orange (from the old vine Cabernet Sauvignon) with aeration (and this is a wine that needs time to open). This is beautifully ripe, beautifully balanced and with the most gracious of tannins. Incredibly layered. Tasted alongside quite a representative sample of mid to upper tier Saint Émilion grands crus and grands crus classés this really shines for the quality of the tannins, the crystalline purity of the mid-palate and the aromatic charm and singularity of the fruit and floral signature. Truly excellent and essentially juicy. So sapid and that reinforces the sense of linearity on the finish.