Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin 1997

Nikolaihof: Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin 1997

BIO

Limitiert

Neu

Holzkiste

Zum Winzer

99
100
2
Riesling 100%
5
weiß, trocken
Gereift
13,0% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2022–2042
Verpackt in: 6er OHK
9
unkonventionell
exotisch & aromatisch
mineralisch
3
Lobenberg: 99/100
Suckling: 98/100
Galloni: 97/100
Parker: 97/100
6
Österreich, Wachau
7
Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin 1997

99
/100

Lobenberg: Der 1997er Vinotheksriesling Fass Severin ist faktisch ein Smaragd und verbrachte weit über 20 Jahre bis Sommer 2022 großen, alten Holzfass. Viele Jahre ist Winzer Niki Saahs zuletzt um dieses Fass herumgeschlichen, das ja schon gefüllt dort stand, als er den Betrieb langsam von seinen Eltern übernommen hat. Immer wieder probiert und über den richtigen Releasezeitpunkt sinniert. Jetzt in 2022 war es dann endlich soweit, die Zeit war reif, Fass Severin kam auf die Flasche. Trinkbare Geschichte und mit dieser Unsterblichkeit der Fassreife des Nikolaihof ausgestattet, das dieses Weingut zu einer Art großem altem Rioja des Wachauer Weißweins macht – einzigartig und kultig. Und riecht man dann am ersten Glas, so traut man ihm sicher weitere 20 Jahre Flaschenreife zu. Denn das riecht so jung und vital, dass man in keiner Blindprobe jemals das Alter dieses Weins erraten würde. Das Bouquet ist fast schon schüchtern und puristisch. Ich habe hier eine gewisse Würzigkeit in Form von Kräutern und frischem Tabak. Dann Oolong-Tee, etwas reife Aprikose und Mirabelle. Am Gaumen hat er eine zupackende Gerbstoffstruktur, die ihm Stoffigkeit und Biss gibt. Sehr würzig, ätherisch und tief in der ganzen Aromatik. So schmeckt also eine Gran Reserva der Wachau. Groß!

98
/100

Suckling über: Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin

-- Suckling: Welcome to the wine time machine! Although there are deep, mature aromas that range from an old library to quince paste and beeswax, after a little aeration some remarkably fresh citrus character emerges. Great concentration and restrained power on the wonderfully harmonious palate. Very long, bone-dry finish. Bottled in early 2022 after 25 years maturing in a large barrel of neutral oak. The barrel name, Fass Severin, is on the label. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold. 98/100

97
/100

Galloni über: Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin

-- Galloni: The 1997 Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin was bottled in February 2022 after almost 25 years in a 3,000-liter barrel, on whose headboard is a carving of Saint Severin—hence the name. (NB this is a different wine from a different site than the one previously released in 2014 as Vinothek 1997). A cooling sense of lemon and Mirabelle rises from the slightly waxy, slightly yeasty nose. All is subdued, and nothing is up-front. Concentration and linearity of lemon brightness is immediate on the palate. This is a pure, very ripe, intense Riesling of unusual freshness. It has a salty, waxy depth that draws you in but comes across as immensely youthful. This is so clean-cut, so hair-raising, so pristine—a wonderful depiction of Riesling's essential nature as a life force of freshness and inherent drive. Profound lemon freshness echoes long. (Bone-dry) 97/100

97
/100

Parker über: Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin

-- Parker: Aged 27 years but bottled only in February 2022, the extraordinary 1997 Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin represents a truly great vintage of rare qualities in the Wachau and all along the Danube between Spitz and Vienna. Mainly sourced in the vineyards Im Weingebirge (amphibolite, loess and paragneiss) and Vom Stein (loess and Danube gravel) as well as from other vineyards in Mautern, the white-golden 1997 Vinothek Riesling is from a cask named Severin and is clear, fresh and savory on the deep and intense yet elegant and even in part leafy nose that shows coolish, mineral depth and even reveals some sweet saffron and vegetal or even greenish/nutty nuances just like acorns. Is this Riesling the perfect match with Ibérico de Bellota? Full-bodied, dense and very complex yet also vivacious and even frisky on the palate, this is a great, comparably lean rather than rich and powerful Riesling from the Nikolaihof whose Jura-like flor note is highly delicate and discreet and perfectly intermingled with flinty tones. Surprisingly, the flor nuance disappears with generous aeration. This 1997 is tight, fresh and elegant on the lively, incredibly young palate, leaving intensity, salt and complexity. The wine is very long and highly promising, a stellar vintage for the Wachau and Nikolaihof. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in January 2025. Very low temperatures at the end of December 1996 caused frost damage in the lowlands. Budbreak was late, but beautiful May made up for it. The vines flowered between June 10 and 20. A cooler July with a good water supply was followed by a warm August and a fantastic September. The winegrowers were able to harvest ripe, healthy grapes. The large temperature differences between day and night in the fall gave the wines of the 1997 vintage an unmistakable, classic character with elegant fruit, a rather slender body and vital acidity. It's perhaps the last classic vintage—certainly the last great one of a time that is over due to global warming.

Mein Winzer

Nikolaihof

Der Nikolaihof ist zwar das älteste Weingut Österreichs – in der Wachau ist man aber ob des Stils führend, sozusagen die gefragteste Generation. Der 22 Hektar kleine Nikolaihof ist in jedem Sinn speziell und einzigartig. [...]

Riesling Vinothek Fass Severin 1997