Parker über:
Sammlerbox: Cote Rotie - Selection de Lieux-Dits
2020 Montmain: Crafted from vines planted in the steepest plots from Côte Rotie, the 2020 Côte Rôtie Montmain reveals a delicate, perfumed bouquet of violets, baked dark barriers and spices mingled with gentle peppery notes. Medium- to full-bodied, dense, deep and muscular, it has an assertive yet elegant tannic frame and a long, spicy finish. Vinified with 80% whole bunches, this solar character is particularly well-dominated by Stéphane Ogier's skill. It should age gracefully over the next two decades. 95+/100. *** 2020 Fongeant: The 2020 Côte Rôtie Fongeant is a standout example of what this estate is capable of producing, and serious collectors of Côte Rôtie should not miss it. Revealing a lovely reductive yet dense bouquet of violet, licorice, spices, dark berries, flowers and menthol mingled with delicate hints of mulberries, it's full-bodied, seamless and layered, with a multidimensional core of fruit and velvety, filigreed tannins, culminating in an endless, ethereal and delicately black truffle-inflected finish. Picked on September 17, it was vinified with 50% whole bunches. Readers who prioritize precision and controlled power will gravitate toward this cuvée, whereas those who privilege broad shoulders and satiny texture will want to seek out the Berthelon. 98/100. *** 2020 Cote Bodin: The 2020 Cote Rotie Cote Bodin is particularly charming today, offering a slightly reduced but elegant bouquet that includes dark berries, rose, litchi, flowers and a hint of menthol. Medium to full-bodied, sappy on attack and enrobing, it's layered and textured with a deep core of fruit enhanced by velvety tannins and a delicate yet silky finish. Harvested on the 1st of September, this is a refined expression of this site, located just above La Landonne. 94/100. ***. 2020 Bertholon: The 2020 Côte Rôtie Bertholon, originating from a parcel with schist soils mixed with clay, consistently presents a broader, denser profile than its counterparts yet maintains a softer, more enveloping texture due to clay. The 2020 Côte Rôtie Bertholon is no exception, revealing aromas of spices, toast, licorice, dark berries, gentian and flowers with air. Full-bodied, rich and textural, it's layered and enrobing, with a dense, multidimensional core of fruit, suave tannins and a delicate pencil lead-inflected finish. Harvested on September 18 and vinified with 50% whole bunches, this Côte Rôtie promises a broad drinking window and significant aging potential. 97+/100 *** 2020 Cognet: The 2020 Côte Rôtie Cognet, crafted from vines planted on mica schist soils where Jean-Paul Jamet has a plot, unfurls a somber, dense bouquet of moka, spices, gentian, licorice and pepper. This full-bodied, concentrated and rich Côte Rôtie showcases a deep, muscular core of fruit, structured tannins and a long, solar finish that imparts a robust, firm character typical of Côte Brune, with an added touch of exuberance due to Ogier's approach. Harvested on September 4, the wine was vinified with 80% whole bunches, adding complexity and depth to its profile. As with all the superb Côte Rôties at this address, it should age gracefully over the next two decades. ,96/100 *** 2020 Le Champon: From an east-facing parcel situated in the highs of the appellation, Le Champon is always the last parcel to be picked and needs sunny, hot weather to mature its berries fully. Revealing a ripe, powerful bouquet of spices, moka, earth and licorice, the 2020 Cote Rotie le Champon possesses a full-bodied, dense, deep and rich palate with a multidimensional core of fruit, velvety tannins and huge concentration underpinned by a generous, structured and densely tannic texture without a firm, harsh character. Vinified with 50% whole bunches, this is one of the stars of Ogier's cellar 97/100. *** 2020 La Vialliere: The 2020 Cote Rotie La Vialliere, shaped by the sunny, sweltering vintage climate, presents more introverted than typical. Revealing a dark, somber bouquet of iris, violet, gentian and licorice intertwined with hints of pencil lead, it possesses a full-bodied, dense and structured palate that is tense and almost taut, despite velvety tannins, concluding with a surprisingly flinty, saline finish. This stunning wine is currently in a brooding phase; I recommend cellaring it for the next decade before enjoyment. 95+/100 *** 2020 But-de-Mont: Picked on September 8, the 2020 Cote Rotie But de Mont is simply gorgeous. It evokes aromas of dark berries, spices and flowers, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, sappy and velvety palate with an enrobing texture underpinned by a fleshy core of fruit and silky tannins. Crafted from the Côte Blonde sector, this is a concentrated, dense Côte Rôtie, yet it might be one of the finest I've ever tasted from this cuvée. 95/100 *** 2020 Leyat: Picked on September 16 and vinified with 30% whole bunches, the 2020 Cote Rotie Leyat reveals an elegant yet dark bouquet of moka, spices, dark berries, licorice and dark cherries mingled with hints of pencil lead with air. Full-bodied, round and sappy, it's layered and enrobing, with a velvety texture and a fleshy core of fruit, culminating in a long, spicy and ethereal finish. This is a very elegant Côte Brune that should age gracefully over the next two decades and more.96/100
