Dhondt - Grellet: Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis 2021

Dhondt - Grellet: Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis 2021

Chardonnay 100%
weiß, trocken
Flaschengärung
Perlend
12,0% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2026–2040
mineralisch
frische Säure
voll & rund
Lobenberg: 96/100
Parker: 96/100
Suckling: 94/100
Jeb Dunnuck: 96/100
Decanter: 94/100
Frankreich, Champagne, Côte des Blancs
Allergene: Sulfite,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis 2021

96
/100

Adrien Dhondts Version der mit Avize stahligsten und puristischsten Grand Cru-Gemeinde der Côte des Blancs. Der Village stammt aus den Lieu-dits La Garenne und Les Longues Verges, die Reben sind über 40 bzw. über 50 Jahre alt. La Garenne ist etwas tiefgründiger und lehmiger, Longues Verges ist sehr karg und kreidig. Degorgiert im Juli 2024 mit 2.5 Gramm Dosage. Cramant ist die wohl schlüssigste Verbindung aus Power und Mineralität und mit Avize meine Lieblingsgemeinde an der Côte des Blancs. Ein Laserschwert von einem Champagner, zitrischfrisch, nussig, dramatisch, kalkig, druckvoll, mitreißend. Aromen von zerstoßener Muschelschale, Amalfizitrone, Grapefruit und weißem Pfirsich. Wie immer bei Dhondt bekommt der Grundwein Holzausbau, darunter auch ein Drittel Neuholz, das gibt der ganzen Geschichte viel Schmelz. Zudem rund 30 Prozent aus der Reserve Perpetuelle aus den 1980ern, die seine Eltern bereits gestartet hatten. Dieser sehr spezielle Ausbau gepaart mit den herausragenden Lagen macht Dhondt so grandios. Ein spektakulärer, kraftvoll-mineralischer Blanc de Blancs! 96/100

96
/100

Parker über: Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis

The NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cramant is sourced from two lieux-dits: La Garenne (planted in 1969 and 1970), defined by deep sandy-clay topsoil, and Les Longues Verges (planted in 1985), with chalkier soil but reduced yields due to le court-noué virus. The stricter, more incisive profile of La Garenne is balanced by the concentration and broad-shouldered musculature of Les Longues Verges. Disgorged in July 2024 with 2.5 grams per liter dosage, this new release is based on the 2021 vintage, complemented by 30% of a historical blend. Concentrated and textural, it’s framed by a patina from maturation in barrels (around one-third new). Despite the high-acid vintage base, the wine is expressive and harmonious, offering notes of lemon zest, cedar nut, smoke and toast. It has a bright, lively personality, concluding with an immensely long, saline finish. Its quality and potential are a testament both the judicious élevage and the visionary work in the vineyards.

94
/100

Suckling über: Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis

The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Cramant Grand Cru is based on the 2019 vintage, harvested from 50-year-old vines, with a 30% addition of a perpetual reserve dating back to 1986. This is from two plots: La Garennes on richer soils that used to be market gardens, and Les Longes Verges with less topsoil, infected by fanleaf virus which results in small, concentrated grapes. The nose has fresh apple notes and the merest touch of crumbled chicken stock cube. The palate is beautifully taut, notwithstanding the ripeness Dhondt aims for, and a cut-through saltiness with a pure, bright lemon freshness. Slight phenolics on the finish add structure. Dosage is 1gr/L. Disgorged: October, 2022.

96
/100

Jeb Dunnuck über: Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis

Pouring a bright yellow color, the NV Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cramant Extra Brut offers notes of lemon curd, fresh apples, honey, citrus blossoms, and golden fruit. It boasts pristine beauty, with a classic Blanc de Blancs appeal yet a beautiful, modern texture. The mousse is refined with creamy bubbles, and the wine has a salty and focused feel. It’s fresh and elegant throughout. Drink 2025-2050. This cuvée comes from two plots in Cramant with opposite profiles. La Garrennes is not the stereotype of Cramant, with more clay and some sand in the soil, creating rich, vigorous conditions that yield a lot of energy. The second plot has chalky soils, low yields, and very small, concentrated berries. One plot brings energy and richness; the other brings vertical structure and concentration.

94
/100

Decanter über: Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis

From two plots in a lesser-known part of the great grand cru village of Cramant, behind the village facing slightly north towards Cuis, Adrien Dhondt crafts a heady, deep blanc de blancs all the more remarkable for being based on the cool 2021 vintage (with one third perpetual reserve added). It's a little more vinous, peppery and grippy than the other two non-vintage cuvées tasted alongside, with notes of apple tart, stewed apricot and powdered ginger meeting a real sense of fruit concentration and texture before a driving finish. Brown bread richness and light structuring from oak vinification emphasise the seriousness of the style here; this striking blanc de blancs needs a little more time to unfurl than either Roc Solare or Terres Fines, but will reward the wait.

Mein Winzer

Dhondt – Grellet

Die familiengeführte Domaine Dhondt-Grellet ist ein Sinnbild für die Erfolgsstory der Winzerchampagne. Bereits 1986 stoppten Eric Dhondt und Edith Grellet den Verkauf von Trauben an Négociants, um ihre eigene Vision der Champagne in die Flasche zu füllen.

Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Basis 2021