Cesar Marquez Perez: Parajes 2023

Cesar Marquez Perez: Parajes 2023

Zum Winzer

95+
100
2
Mencia 85%, Diverse 8%, Alicante Bouschet 7%
5
rot, trocken
13,0% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2026–2041
Verpackt in: 6er
9
pikant & würzig
fruchtbetont
3
Lobenberg: 95+/100
Parker: 94/100
6
Spanien, Bierzo
7
Allergene: Sulfite,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Parajes 2023

95+
/100

Lobenberg: Archetypischer Mencia. Geringste Erträge aus alten Weinstöcken in Steillage. Ausbau nur im gebrauchten und großen Holz. Reife Beerenfrucht neben knackiger Frische. Cranberry, Holunder, Blaubeerschalen, etwas Teer, Wildkräuter und geflämmtes Holz. Erstaunliche Länge aus über 100 Jahre alten Reben bei nur mittlerem Körper. Ein echter Charakterwein mit hoher Intensität, Biss und Würze, leichte Chilischärfe. Verbleibt für Minuten und bietet Grundlage für Diskussionen, sehr trocken, Charakter siegt über Charme und Süße, nicht everybodys darling sondern ein Wein, der nach Auseinandersetzung ruft. So soll es sein bei einem guten, würzigen Mencia.

Jahrgangsbericht

2023 war sehr warm, aber er ist deutlich kühler und balancierter als der noch heißere und trockenere 2022. Nicht so aufregend und extrem wie 2021, eher eine reife und harmonische Version von 2020. Und so ist 2023 durchaus eine Fortsetzung der so großen Jahrgänge seit 2019. Luis Gutierez, Parkers Mann für Spanien, fasst den Jahrgang 2023 anhand von Alvaro Palacios Weingütern ganz im Westen und ganz im Osten, somit Landesübergreifend so zusammen: 2023 was an even more generous crop than 2022 … the wines have better balance, and it doesn't feel like a warm year at all. In fact, the wines feel more like they come from a cool year. It's a vintage that has a tendency toward reduction, not as much as 2020, but still reductive. But it's an elegant, stony reduction...The quality of the 2023s is stunning. There is a level of precision, cleanliness, symmetry and elegance that, if the end of the élevage and the bottling goes as expected, I must conclude that 2023 might be the finest vintage ... There might be other individual wines that reach higher peaks, but as an overall portfolio, the vintage 2023 represents the strongest collection ever produced.

94
/100

Parker über: Parajes

-- Parker: The 2023 Parajes is his regional red, a blend of different places, soils, expositions and altitudes (between 450 and 780 meters above sea level). It's a real representation of El Bierzo, with grapes from 45 different plots in nine villages. The vines range in age from 80 to 142 years of old and are planted with field blends—approximately 85% Mencía, 10% Alicante Bouschet and 5% other white and red varieties like Bastardo, Sousón and Estaladiña. There are always some full clusters, depending on vintage and plot, and part of the wine ferments in stainless steel and part of it is in bins, as he ferments by plot. The wine matured in 225-, 400- and 500-liter oak barrels for one year. It has moderate ripeness and 13.08% alcohol, a pH of 3.58 and 5.34 grams of acidity, making it lower in alcohol than the 2022 and with more freshness. It's serious and balanced, elegant and fine-boned. It gets very close to the village red this year. This is a bargain. 34,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2025.

Verkostungsnotiz

Weingut über: Parajes

-- Weingut: The Project of the winery includes a region wine, a village wine and several plots within the reds. Parajes represents the region wine and its first vintage appears in 2016. In its preparation grapes from different parts of Bierzo have been used, each plot has been elaborated separately. In the 2023 vintage, grapes from 9 villages of El Bierzo were used: Valtuille, Arganza, Toral, San Pedro de Olleros, Villadecanes, Valdecañada, San Clemente, San Juan de Paluezas and Hornija. We elaborate each plot separately, with a total of 48 vinifications. Within these places plots at El Rapolao, Villegas, Pico Ferreira, Sufreiral and El Val are notable. In the vinifications the white grape of each plot is present, as it appears in the vineyard. After a dry 2022 throughout Spain, 2023 began with a very cold, rainy winter with strong winds, like those of our childhood. Frost and cold days lasted until spring, which advanced with warm days, threatening an early bud break. After a warm and rainy May, temperatures dropped again in June. Then came more rains and thunderstorms along with some very hot days. This weather made us especially vigilant to avoid the appearance of mildew. July and August were characterized by moderate temperatures. In September the grape harvest began, with plenty of grapes but not very large bunches. It was a vintage like the ones of yesterday; the rains made us harvest many days with waterproof suits. A year with a rainfall of almost 900 litres/m2 has given us wines with more fluidity, reminding us of the 2001 or 2021 vintages. Fresh, floral and more delicate wines than the previous vintage. The grapes were collected manually, each plot was fermented independently, with the final mixture having around 20% of whole grape. The harvest lasted 16 days. The grapes are gently stepped on, so that a part of the grapes remains whole in the fermentation, which is carried out spontaneously by the yeast itself without adding any other. The macerations occur between 17 and 60 days of contact.After pressing, the wine is introduced separately in barrels, except for a part, corresponding to the Valtuille vineyards, which ages in a 5.000 litre foudre. After one year, the barrels are emptied and the different plots are assembled.

Mein Winzer

César Márquez

César Márquez ist der Neffe des langbärtigen Bierzo Überflieger Winzers Raul Perez. Der talentierte junge Mann braucht den Vergleich aber nicht zu scheuen, denn er ist selbst bereits eines der aufsteigenden Talente in der spannenden spanischen Weinszene. César studierte zwar 2007 Önologie an der Uni...

Parajes 2023