Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd trocken

Nikolaihof

Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd trocken 2014

BIO

mineralisch
fruchtbetont
leicht & frisch
frische Säure
94–95+
100
2
Riesling 100%
5
weiß
12,5% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2018–2036
Verpackt in: 12er
3
Lobenberg: 94–95+/100
Galloni: 97/100
Suckling: 95/100
Wine Enthusiast: 94/100
6
Österreich, Wachau
7
Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd trocken 2014

94–95+
/100

Lobenberg: Dieser Smaragd Riesling verbringt in etwa 2,5 Jahre im Nikolaihof-typischen, großen Holzfass. Trotz der Smaragdstufe ist das ein extrem athletischer und keinesfalls fetter Riesling – hier verfolgt man mit den Smaragden eine ganz andere Linie, eine ganz andere Philisophie. Man sucht Tiefe, Ruhe und Länge anstatt Power und Alkohol. Nur 12,5% vol. locken hier. Weiße Blüten, und Zitrusfrüchte, auch etwas Aprikose, aber nur zart, Austernschale, Zitrusabrieb und ein Touch Feuerstein, die Frucht ist leicht zurückgenommen. Alles ummantelt von einer zarten Rauchigkeit. Am Gaumen ist die Säure das Grundgerüst, darum schlängelt sich die helle Frucht und eine feine Würzigkeit. Knochentrocken und dicht strukturiert. Man schmeckt den Riesling noch über mehrere Minuten nach in seiner zitronig-frischen Art. Reift problemlos 20 und mehr Jahre. Sehr druckvoll und intensiv für den Nikolaihof. 94-95+/100

97
/100

Galloni über: Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd trocken

-- Galloni: In a departure from usual Nikolaihof practice – given that it had by then been filtered and assembled into tank – I was offered my first taste of this wine shortly before the initial, December 2017 bottling. The wine was exciting then, and when re-tasted repeatedly in the course of 2018 had only gained in stature. Moss, lemon zest, peach kernel and toasted grain on the nose put me in mind of a relatively austere white Burgundy. But that sense of kinship dims with the emergence of high-toned hints of lavender and mint, mouthwatering ocean breeze and a sappy, juicy abundance of fresh lime and white peach juiciness on the silken palate. There are also faint hints of kirsch and mothball such as one can encounter from time to time at this address and to whose volatility some tasters might object. The finish is transparent to a veritable carpet of mineral matter – albeit a levitating, vibrantly undulating one! Crushed stone, alkali, mineral salts and iodine combine with herbal and protein-rich flavors for something approximating a blend of oyster liquor and clam stock that set my salivary glands to palpitating. And now for the astonishing kicker: This remarkable stuff filled the largest cask in the Nikolaihof cellar, with a capacity of 12,000 liters! Half was bottled in 2017 and 2018; the rest will be held back – let’s hope eventually to inform a Vinothek offering. “The only sense in which this wine needed to be bottled,” noted Saahs, “was in order to avoid Vom Stein Smaragd temporarily dropping from our price list and to make room in the cellar. It wasn’t the phases of the moon calling the shots,” he added with a sly grin. (Re-tasted alongside, the corresponding 2013 showed at the upper end of my earlier projection. But despite issuing from one of the two finest Wachau vintages that it has been my privilege to taste as young wines, that 2013 doesn’t quite reach the complexity nor exhibit the clarity and energy of this 2014 – not for now, at least.) 97/100

95
/100

Suckling über: Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd trocken

-- Suckling: An intensely minerally riesling that combines considerable power with a slim silhouette. Finely etched dried-pear and candied-lemon flavors echo through the long, subtle finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Demeter certified. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95/100

94
/100

Wine Enthusiast über: Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd trocken

-- Wine Enthusiast: This wine's earth, straw and lifted lemon scents suggest evolution. The palate, on the other hand, is dewy and fresh, with pristine and pure lemon notes. Though edged with a beeswax-like quality, its central vein of bright lemon flavor radiates freshness. It's bone dry and light, with a lip-smacking, salty and long finish. 94/100

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Der Nikolaihof ist zwar das älteste Weingut Österreichs – in der Wachau ist man aber ob des Stils führend, sozusagen die gefragteste Generation. Der 22 Hektar kleine Nikolaihof ist in jedem Sinn speziell und einzigartig. [...]

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