van Zellers Quinta Vale Dona Maria: Vintage Port DOC 2016

Parker über: Vintage Port DOC

-- Parker: The 2016 Vintage Port Vale D. Maria is a field blend from various vines ranging from 30 to 80 years in age. It was aged for six months in stainless steel and 14 months in old oak vats. It comes in with 102 grams of sugar. This is the first look in bottle, and it is the current release in the marketplace, although the 2017 (reviewed in the July 11, 2019, interim issue) will be out soon. I loved this when I first saw it. It was powerful and tightly wound with lifted fruit. That still describes it. At that point in its life, though, it was overwhelmed by the power. A year or so in the bottle has changed that demeanor dramatically and made it easier to see what we have. The tannins have moderated to some extent—although this still has plenty of power, so don't misunderstand. It still tightens notably with aeration, and there's plenty of tannic pop four days later. Leaner than the 2017 recently reviewed, it compensates with its graceful demeanor and laser-like precision that makes it perfectly focused. The dry fruit seems stern and brooding, but it opens with air. It is always very persistent. The aromatics are classic. Overall, this nicely crafted Porto is still lovely, still improving, and it has a long life ahead. It would help if you left it in the cellar for another decade or so. 95/100