Vinha Centenaria 2018

Azores Wine Company

Vinha Centenaria 2018

frische Säure
Arinto dos Acores 85%, Verdelho, Alicante, Boal
13,5% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2024–2039
Verpackt in: 6er
Lobenberg: 98+/100
Parker: 95/100
Portugal, Azoren
Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Vinha Centenaria 2018


Lobenberg: Ein uralter gemischter Satz, mehr als Hundert Jahre alte Reben, 85% Arinto dos Acores. Nur 50 Meter vom Meer entfernt. Da wo die Krabben singen. Handlese, kurze Maischestandzeit mit Direktpresse, spontan vergoren zu 75% im Stahl und zu 25% im Barrique, danach auf der Hefe belassen und knapp ein Jahr ausgebaut. Danach unfiltriert in die Flasche, es gibt nur 500 davon. Strohgelb mit Tendenz zu Zitrusgelb. In der Nase blutjung, extrem strukturiert und etwas schräg. Lakritze und Trüffel? Stein und Salz, Limette, Lindenblüte, Jod, etwas tannic und doch sehr aromatisch. Der Wein schreit nach Alterung, man sollte ihm sicher erstmal 5 Jahre im Keller geben. Eine grandiose Dichte und Länge und Power und doch nie fett, eher elegant und hochindividuell mit hochintensivem Steinsalz und Meersalz im scharfen Nachhall. Hochindividuell ist noch untertrieben, nicht jeder mag's. 98+/100


Parker über: Vinha Centenaria

-- Parker: Açores (85%), but several others as well, such as Verdelho, Alicante Branco and Boal. It was aged in a 75/25 blend of stainless steel and used French oak for nine months. It comes in at 13.8% alcohol. This was from one of the driest years ever, said winemaker António Maçanita, similar to 2015 and 2013 but even drier. It is also a vineyard that gets more sun and this was a warm year, he added. In this vintage, at least, this seems riper and more concentrated, but it does not lose the tension on the finish. The balance between acidity and concentration is excellent. It is tightly wound and laser-like focused. To me, this is where the winery puts it all together in terms of structure and concentration this issue. It's the most complete wine of the group, although unhappily also the priciest. That's because, in part, there were just 1,450 bottles produced. Too bad—it means many won't get to try this magnificent Azores white for one reason or another.If it feels deep and full-bodied on opening, that's a comment relative to its style and its siblings, of course. It's not a fat wine in the grand scheme of things, to be clear, and it certainly isn't a fruit-forward one. The structure and the acidity are still its biggest calling cards. Its intensity simply grabs the palate. The flavor medley is more complex than with its monovarietal siblings as well, while it handles the modest oak treatment effortlessly. Overall, it seems nuanced, tense and capable of aging 15 to 20 years. We'll see how it all works out in time, but to me, this is the best wine yet produced by this winery—and this wine is nowhere near peak. (For that matter, neither is the winery!) This might yet improve notably. I hesitate to rate such a new brand so highly, but it made me want to lean up on it, especially as it aired out and warmed up. Tasted some hours later and at closer to room temperature, it was even more brilliant. Hopefully, it justifies all of my enthusiasm, but it sure won't disappoint overall.For bargain hunters, I do have a tip, though: the Arinto dos Açores Sur Lies 2019 also reviewed this issue is no slouch and less than half the price. But this Vinha Centenária gets first prize.

Parker zu 2016 über: Vinha Centenaria

-- Parker zu 2016: Parker zu 2016: The 2016 Vinha Centenária is a field blend from vines 100+ years old, mostly Arinto dos Açores (85%), but several others as well. It was aged in a 75/25 blend of stainless steel and third use French oak for nine months. It comes in at 12.5% alcohol. This is the first release—but the winery is still holding a 2015 that is thought to be too backward still. By far the most concentrated and aromatic wine here, this has a medley of flavors that are obviously not all Arinto. There's a touch of truffle, for instance. The structure is gorgeous. This is very different, but I liked it a lot. It should acquire more complexity as it ages, and it should age well. Of course, there is no track record. Take that in stages. In the meanwhile, let's lean up a bit on this, but it does have to demonstrate some complexity as it ages. There were just 720 bottles produced.

Weingut über: Vinha Centenaria

-- Weingut: In this island, for more than 500 years, vines are planted in the rock cracks, less than 50m from the ocean, where one can hear the “crabs singing”. After phyloxera and oidium’s devastating attack in the XIX century, the stubborn Pico ́s Man maintained a small pocket of vineyards that resisted to extinction. This “Vinha Centenária” it’s from one of those vineyards with more than 100 years that are guardian of the Azores exclusive grape varietals and witness of the traditional vineyards composition. Produced from a vineyard with more than 100 years dominating the Arinto of the Azores, but there are also Verdelho, Boal (Malvasia Fina) and Alicante Branco (Boal de Alicante). Grapes hand-picked, sorting table, direct press, decanted 12h in cold, first presses vinified in stainless steel in horizontal, 2nd presses fermented in French oak barrels of 3 years age, without batonna- ge for 9 months. Yellow citrus-straw color, iodine flavor, salt, linden. In the mouth concentrated dense attack, acidity cuts in the middle and stays until the end of the taste, salt, salt, salt and iodine, is a 'slap' of sea.Yellow citrus-straw color, iodine flavor, salt, linden. In the mouth concentrated dense attack, acidity cuts in the middle and stays until the end of the taste, salt, salt, salt and iodine, is a 'slap' of sea.

Mein Winzer

Azores Wine Company

Antonio Macanita ist ein noch nicht einmal 40 Jahre altes, vinophiles Multitalent, und er ist auf dem besten Wege der renommierteste Winemaker Portugals zu werden.