Riesling Loibenberg 2013

Galloni über: Riesling Loibenberg

-- Galloni: The sole Riesling of its vintage that Krutzler and Pichler elected--or were able--to raise in cask, this leads with pungently penetrating lemon oil, bruised kumquat rind, musk, smoky black tea, blond tobacco and a hint of peach kernel, all of which go on to accent juicy ripe peach on a polished palate. A certain youthful severity here thanks to botrytis prickle, intensity of high-toned esters, sheer phenolic concentration and prominent piquancy has given way after a year’s bottle age to luscious creaminess. Yet for all of its consequent textural caress and its sheer richness of fruit, this beauty displays dynamic interaction with seemingly crystalline mineral accents in its vibrantly gripping finish. A TBA. was pulled out from this parcel in order to make sure that virtually no botrytis berries informed the present wine; but there certainly remains an aura of very ripe and, at least in part, lightly desiccated, botrytis-tinged berries about it. 93/100