Müller Catoir: Haardt Scheurebe Ortswein 2018

Galloni über: Haardt Scheurebe Ortswein

-- Galloni: Unlike the estate’s significantly earlier-harvested generic vintage 2018 Scheurebe, this Haardter, while impressive it its way, bears out Franzen’s observation that “it’s not a dream year for Scheurebe when it gets this warm.” (And fruit that would usually inform a corresponding Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe trocken was this year declassified into this village-level wine.) The aromatics here are predictably pungent. Marjoram, mint, gooseberry and celery seed suggest an incestuous liaison of Sauvignon with its ancient parent Traminer. The firm, full palate projects a smoky, piquant cast. Where the wine falls down just a bit is in a pithy persistence that would benefit from greater sense of animation and sheer juiciness. I don’t peg it as a long keeper by the standards of its genre. 90/100