Nervi - Giacomo Conterno: Gattinara 2017

Name: Gattinara
Brand: Nervi – Giacomo Conterno
SKU: 44238H
Price: 39.9 EUR
Availability: OutOfStock

Zum Winzer

95–96+

100

2: Nebbiolo 100%

5: rot, trocken; 14,5% Vol.; Trinkreife: 2023–2043; Verpackt in: 6er

9: fruchtbetont; frische Säure; seidig & aromatisch

3: Lobenberg: 95–96+/100; Galloni: 94/100; Decanter: 94/100; Falstaff: 93+/100; Parker: 93/100

6: Italien, Piemont

7: Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation
Abfüller / Importeur: Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi Srl, Corso Vercelli 117, 13045 Gattinara (VC) ITALIEN

Lobenberg: Nebbiolo vom Vulkan-Terroir, diese sehr steinige Mineralkomponente macht aus dem von Haus aus schon blumig und wildbeerig daherkommenden Wein eine spannende Delikatesse. Cool climate mit schwarzem Stein und getrockneten Blüten und getrockneten Kirsch-Schalen, wild und zugleich klar und transparent. Ab dem Jahrgang 2015 kommt dann aber auch Robertos Handschrift im Weinberg zum Tragen. Der warme reiche Jahrgang und die starke Ertragsreduktion bei kompletter Entrappung geben eine tolle Fülle und Reichhaltigkeit in die Spartanik der Hochlage. In Folge der spürbaren Klimaveränderung liegt hier in der Hochlage die erfolgversprechendste Vision der Nebbiolo, grandiose Lagen und uralte Reben kombiniert mit den einzigartigen Fähigkeiten des Weingutteams von Giacomo Conterno, hier hat die Zukunft schon begonnen. Das ist spannender, vibrierender Stoff, eine Art Barolo für Hochlagen-Freaks. Der 2017er enthält auch die 2 Einzellagen, Roberto fand den Jahrgang zu fruchtbetont und wuchtig, um seine cool climate Lagen perfekt auszudrücken. Der 2017er Gattinara ähnelt in seiner Art mehr einem Power-Barolo als einem kühlen, schlanken Gattinara, ich finde ihn groß! 95-96+/100

Galloni über: Gattinara

-- Galloni: The 2017 Gattinara is terrific. It will also give readers something to drink without waiting decades. In 2017, the Gattinara is a bit richer than it often is - the result of the warm dry year – but its profile is super-classic. Sweet pipe tobacco, mint, dried herbs, licorice, dried cherry and Alpine herbs fill out its ample frame effortlessly. I would give the 2017 a few years in bottle, but it won’t need more than that to start drinking well. In 2017, Roberto Conterno did not bottle his vineyard-designates. Instead, all the best lots went into the straight Gattinara, an overachieving wine that delivers the goods. I don’t expect the 2017 will be among the most long-lived wines here, but that will hardly be an issue for most readers. 94/100

Decanter über: Gattinara

-- Decanter: Roberto Conterno’s purchase of the historic Cantina Nervi in 2018 signals a new Super-Italian reality, casting a spotlight on this underrated denomination. Conterno saw the 2017 vintage through élevage and decided not to bottle the estate’s famous Molsino and Valferana crus separately. With some coaxing, alpine flowers, red cherry and juniper emerge from a dark, earthy backdrop. The palate is further nuanced by bitter roots, chinotto citrus, liquorice bark and a crushed granite mouthfeel. Refined tannins build up, with textural grip closing in on the finish. Tanginess and energy are evident throughout, underscoring the promise of cooler regions as global temperatures rise. 94/100

Falstaff über: Gattinara

-- Falstaff: Duftig: Cocktailkirsche und Kräuter, Rose, Leder, Karamell. Der Gaumen beginnt geschmeidig, rollt dann ein feinkörniges, dichtes Tannin aus, das Druck macht, ohne den Stil der Eleganz zu verlassen. Die feine Säure ist nahtlos mit dem Körper verschmolzen. Delikatesse – und Reifevermögen! Zuletzt auch noch Salzigkeit. 93+/100

Parker über: Gattinara

-- Parker: The Conterno Nervi 2017 Gattinara sources its fruit from the volcanic soils of various vineyard sites, including Molsino, Valferana, Garavogloe and Casacce. These sites sit at various elevations in the small valley of hills that surround the town of Gattinara near the Sesia River in an area of beautifully dramatic topography. But these hills also trap the rain, and abundant precipitation (thankfully, no frost or hail, though) was an issue here in Alto Piemonte, Roberto Conterno tells me, more so than in the Langhe that generally saw a hot and dry summer. He did not make the two cru expression in 2017, and all the fruit from those sites ended up in this bottling (or was otherwise sold off). Despite this prelude, I found this wine to be stable and saturated, both in terms of aromatic character and flavor. It shows dark currant and wild plum, with hints of dusty earth, grilled herb and cola. This harvest predates Roberto Conterno's acquisition of Nervi; however, he had played a background role at this historic winery for some years by this point. From that point of view, you start to see the meticulous work to achieve freshness and precision with this Nebbiolo-based wine. 93/100

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