Alvarinho Soalheiro Reserva 2017

-- Parker: The 2017 Alvarinho Reserva, the fully oaked version here from old vines, spent 11 months in 35% new French oak and comes in at 13% alcohol. It is dry (under two grams of sugar versus 5.5 grams of total acidity). This is more heavily oaked than the "first vines" bottling. There, it's a nuance. Here, it is an integral part of the wine's character. This year, in particular, it handles the wood brilliantly. The first impression is not wood, but big and ripe fruit. There is a tinge of sweet wood, and the fruit is not completely unmolested. Still, this is beautifully balanced even in its youth, and it will get better. It feels full in the mid-palate and it is pretty delicious. In many years, this bottling has not been a favorite of mine, but it seems to be producing some awesome results these days. I personally preferred the Primeiras Vinhas, but this is pretty close. We'll see how they both evolve in their long lives ahead—quite probably better than I anticipate. 93/100