Alvarinho Soalheiro Reserva 2016

Parker über: Alvarinho Soalheiro Reserva

-- Parker: The 2016 Alvarinho Reserva, the fully oaked version here from old vines, spent 11 months in 35% new French oak and comes in at 13% alcohol. This is more heavily oaked than the 'first vines' bottling. I've never felt that a lot of wood is the winery's strength, considering its traditional emphasis on acidity and purity. That's not to say they don't do a good job. This is a fine year for it. Gentle and fresh, this adds some grip on the long finish. It never seems overly woody, but it certainly lacks the purity of the fresher whites—few express Alvarinho as well as Soalheiro. Even Soalheiro can't completely change the equation when oak is added. That said, this is remarkably fresh and sunny for an oaked wine. It just seems alive, not stern. It is also something with the stuffing to hold up to food, and it might well be a better pairing for some foods. Sourced from 40-year-old vines, there were 9,500 bottles produced. 92/100