Markus Molitor: Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Auslese *** Goldene Kapsel 2014

Parker über: Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Auslese *** Goldene Kapsel

-- Parker: Markus Molitor holds 2.5 hectares in the Bockstein and his 2014 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is probably the greatest of this cru in 2014. The wine has an intense yellow color and displays a delicately spicy new oak flavor, perfectly intertwined with bright and ripe fruit aromas, such as pineapples and yellow-skinned apples. This nose combines Burgundy with Mosel Riesling at this early stage. Full and rich but highly elegant on the palate, this is a fascinatingly lush and vital, finesse-full and seriously structured Riesling of great balance and elegance. The wine is certainly sweet, but no sweeter as a sweet and ripe pineapple just fallen from the tree. The slate purity and finesse is also detectable, and the acidity is so nicely cheerful that the aftertaste, with all its tension, finesse and potential, leaves you with a sense of wonder. I wish this could be the beginning of a new – or the rebirth of an old – Auslese style, whose sweetness is never sweet, but round and lush, and whose acidity is as ripe and delicate as it is here. 98/100