Marques de Murrieta: Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial 1986

Name: Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial
Brand: Marques de Murrieta
SKU: 57038H
Price: 999 EUR
Availability: OutOfStock

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100+

100

2: Viura 97%, Malvasia 3%

5: weiß, trocken; Gereift; 13,5% Vol.; Trinkreife: 2000–2050; Verpackt in: 3er OHK

9: fruchtbetont; mineralisch

3: Lobenberg: 100+/100; Parker: 100/100; Falstaff: 100/100; Galloni: 98/100; Decanter: 98/100

6: Spanien, Rioja

7: Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation
Abfüller / Importeur: Bodega Marques de Murrieta, N-232a Km 402, 26006 Logroño, La Rioja, SPANIEN

Lobenberg: 1986 ist ein ganz großes Jahr in der Rioja und auch Ribera. Rot und weiß. Der weiße Ygay 86 ist schon lange eine lebende Legende und ein Mythos der Weingeschichte. Über 20 Jahre im Fass. Tondonia Gran Reserva und vielleicht sogar besser. 100+/100

Parker über: Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial

-- Parker: I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time. 100/100

Galloni über: Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial

-- Galloni: Bright yellow-gold. A hugely complex bouquet evokes dried pear, peach nectar, orange marmalade, honey, marzipan and chamomile, with vanilla and smoky mineral notes in the background. Stains the palate with sappy, deeply concentrated citrus, orchard and pit fruit flavors, plus suggestions of brown butter, shortbread and orange zest. This wine is fully mature but there's no sign of it slowing down anytime soon. Finishes with superb persistence and energy, leaving peach liqueur, buttered toast and honey notes behind, eventually. This is one of the most remarkable white wines that I have ever had, from anywhere. 98/100

Decanter über: Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial

-- Decanter: We should all age so well. Perhaps the most shocking wine I've ever tasted, the current vintage, is the 1986, as this bottling is typically released ‘every 25 of 30 years’, according to Vicente Dalmau. 1998 may be the next iteration of this wine. The wine is Viura, with only 3% of the blend Malvasia. It spent 21 years in French oak, the barrels coated with tartrate crystals to allow no oxygen transfer, and then six years in concrete tank. All of that was followed by another three years in the bottle. This wine was released in 2014. Vicente calls this an ‘old rock star’ with the maturity, swagger and ability to pull it all off. The aromatics are gorgeous, with nutty elements, beeswax and honey, which show an undeniable youthful character. The palate stuns with its freshness and verve: salted lemons, bright wildflower honey and a drop of lemon oil. A toasted pine nut character hints at a sense of umami-driven depth. What a crescendo to a fantastic masterclass.

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