Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen« 2017

Keller Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen« 2017

12 Flaschen

Zum Winzer


Diese Sammlerbox enthält 3 Flaschen Westhofen Morstein GG, je 2 Flaschen G-Max Riesling, Westhofen Abts E GG sowie je 1 Flasche Westhofen Kirchspiel GG, Dalsheim Hubacker GG, Nierstein Hipping "H.M.", Nierstein Pettenthal GG und Westhofen Abts E Auslese GL


Heiner Lobenberg über:
Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen« 2017


Lobenberg: Die »Keller-Kiste« ist so etwas wie der heilige Gral der Riesling-Fans. Unfassbar rar und begehrt. Einige Weine sind exklusiv, also nur in dieser Kiste erhältlich. Darunter auch der legendäre Kultriesling G-Max. Es ist also quasi das weiße Pendant zur DRC-Kiste. Die 2017er enthält folgende Weine: Je 2 Flaschen AbtsE GG (13,0% vol.), Kirchspiel (13,0% vol.), Morstein GG (13,0% vol.), G-Max (13,0% vol.), je 1 Flasche Hubacker GG (13,0% vol.), Hipping GG (13,0% vol.), Hubacker Auslese GK (7,5% vol.), AbtsE Auslese GK (8,5% vol.). Alle Weine sind Riesling aus dem Jahrgang 2017.


Suckling über: Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«

-- Suckling: Hubacker GG:he richest and boldest of Keller's 2017 GGs, but it also has great structure and a powerful, mineral and herbal finish. Although it is already showing plenty of citrus character, a lot more will come out if you're patient. 96/100Hipping:Extremely deep, but as straight as a laser beam, this is brimming with grapefruit, herb and smoke character. The enormous, mineral freshness on the super-concentrated palate drives the finish out in the direction of infinity. 98/100Abtserde GG:It's been said, perhaps a million times, that riesling has a peachy aroma. Now this wine redefines what peachy means for this grape, so beautiful is the peach aroma in the nose here. Gigantic concentration, but it remains super-bright and pure. The power at the finish is married to totally uplifting freshness. 99/100Kirchspiel:Ripe and suave with a great balance of peachy fruit, a minty note and really elegant acidity. The long, chalky finish is very graceful. A serious wine that's relatively easy to understand. 95/100Morstein:Hold on tight before you drink this dry riesling! Mind-blowing concentration here, yet it weighs in at just 12.5 per cent alcohol. This gives it an extraordinary impression of weightlessness at the finish. Enormous aging potential. 99//100


Galloni über: Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«

-- Galloni: Hipping:Given the superb performance of this year’s (largely Hipping) village-level Niersteiner, Keller served me this Hipping immediately thereafter, thus emphasizing why he chose not to include fruit from the uppermost or lowest part of the slope in his Grosses Gewächs. The animating brightness and tang conveyed here by fresh lemon, tangerine and pineapple near the core – anticipated on the wine’s effusive nose – translate into consummate refreshment and mouth-shaking vibrancy. There is a remarkable sense throughout this performance of transparency to myriad aromatic as well as tactile nuances. Iris and gentian perfume, smoke, stone, green tea and sea salt all combine for a superb show and linger with haunting, mouthwatering persistence. The texture is silken and there is a sense of lift that belies the 13% alcohol indicated on the wine’s label. Impressive though this already is, I feel confident that it will prove even better with time in bottle. 96/100G-Max:Smoky, stony intensity on the nose anticipates the sense of pithy, palpably mineral-infused concentration exhibited inner-mouth. Lime and crabapple offer welcome bright, tart juiciness while staining the palate with the piquancy of their seeds – an impression reinforced by a bittersweet note of chewy almond skin. In an effort not to be outdone in vibrancy by its impressive Grosses Gewächs siblings – in particular, the Abtserde – this wine, too, shakes up the mouth as it deposits a nearly ineradicable array of smoky, stony, oily, alkaline and other, hard-to-name mineral traces. 96/100Abtserde GG:Seed-inflected Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, fusel oil and struck flint feature on the nose. That same cast of characters reprises with almost painfully concentrated piquancy, brightness and medicinal-mineral saturation on a palpably extract-rich palate. Only after some aeration does a hint of site-typical florality emerge, in the form of bittersweet perfume backed by hothouse greenery. In keeping with a vintage 2017 trend at this address – but a trend accentuated in this instance – the finish is detonative in its vibrant conveyance of energy as well as striking in its impression of chalk and stone suffusion. But beyond that, it offers mouthwatering salinity and a virtually kaleidoscopic cycle of further, ineffable mineral impressions. 96/100Abtserde Auslese GK:This issued from the upper reaches of the Abtserde – stony and meager in topsoil – and from fruit roughly 25% botrytized. mirabelle, quince and white raisin soar from the rim of the glass. In the mouth, a satiny feel and a hint of oiliness enhance the sense of jellied and dried fruits. But as with the corresponding Spätlese and “regular” Auslese, bright animation and invigorating tactile stimulation emerge, here in the form of sizzling raw ginger and lime peel. There is an almost severe sense of concentration that translates into a gripping, nearly ineradicable finish, accompanied by vibrancy such as runs virtually throughout the vintage 2017 Keller collection, at whatever level of residual sugar. 95/100Kirchspiel:Bright lime and grapefruit are allied with a vivid impression of chalk suffusion, intimated on the nose and then featured on a silken palate. The sense of sheer extract-richness here is formidable. But whereas I tend to think of the mineral character promoted by Kirchspiel – especially in a vintage with high acidity – as conducive to severity and austerity, the texture and generous juiciness on display in this instance make for a Riesling that is infectiously approachable even at this early stage. Chalky and ashen notes lend intrigue while salinity serves for saliva-inducement on a gripping, vibrant, not to mention downright refreshing finish. (As usual, there was a small separately bottled batch of Kirchspiel that finished with higher residual sugar and which Keller marketed as 'Riesling RR.' Unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste it.) 94/100Morstein:Chalk dust, Latakia tobacco, lime peel, bruised apple skin, pennyroyal and boxwood combine for a penetrating nose whose sheer intensity – not to mention some of its specifics – I can’t recall from any previous Keller Morstein. The feel is firm, and the palate veritably seethes with mineral matter while exhibiting brightly and tartly juicy fruit intensity that suggests an admixture of white currant and crabapple core. The finish grips implacably, tugging at cheeks and salivary glands alike, while delivering mouth-shaking energy and a striking impression of chalk and stone suffusion. And for all that this wine approaches hyper-concentration, it nonetheless exhibits an exhilarating sense of animation and lift while compelling the next sip. “That’s exactly how it should be,” remarked Keller. 95/100

Mein Winzer

Klaus Peter Keller

Klaus Peter Keller ist wahrlich ein Top-Winzer, der bestes Terroir mit Geschick und Einfühlungsvermögen zu traumhaften Weinen vermählt. Behutsam führt der ambitionierte Klaus Peter Keller seit diesem Jahrhundert die Weinerzeugung in zigster Generation fort, er, der vielleicht bei den trockenen...