Keller Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen« 2016
Diese Sammlerbox enthält je 2 Flaschen 2016er: G-Max, Abts E GG, Kirchspiel GG, Morstein GG, Hipping GG, Hubacker GG
Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen« 2016
Lobenberg: Die »Keller-Kiste« ist so etwas wie der heilige Gral der Riesling-Fans. Unfassbar rar und begehrt. Einige Weine sind exklusiv, also nur in dieser Kiste erhältlich. Darunter auch der legendäre Kultriesling G-Max. Es ist also quasi das weiße Pendant zur DRC-Kiste. Die 2016er enthält folgende Weine: Je 2 Flaschen G-Max (12,5% vol.), AbtsE GG (12,5% vol.), Kirchspiel GG (13% vol.), Morstein GG (12,5% vol.), Hipping H.M. (11,5% vol.), Hubacker GG (12,5% vol.). Alle Weine sind Riesling aus dem Jahrgang 2016.
Suckling über: Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«
-- Suckling: Hubacker:Rich, generous and concentrated as Keller's wines from this site always are. The subtle earthy touch fits beautifully, and this carries the finish every bit as much as the acidity. 95/100Hipping:What a seductive beauty! This combines an ethereal lightness with enormous depth. The spectrum of the aromas is enormous, reaching from ripe peach to white pepper. This may have a couple of grams too much grape sweetness to qualify for Grosses Gewächs status, but it does have a dazzling mineral finish. 98/100G-Max:The biggest and richest of the 2016 dry riesling from Keller. Great textural complexity, but this wine is also anything but heavy thanks to the super-vibrant finish that stretches out in the direction of infinity. 98/100Kirchspiel:Lovely peachy fruit, quite powerful, but also beautifuly balanced. The finish is extremely seductive. 94/100Morstein:Still pretty funky (reduction) this needs a couple of years, but it's very powerful and concentrated with the same sleek body as the other 2016 single vineyard dry rieslings from Keller. 96/100
Parker über: Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«
-- Parker: G-Max:The 2016 Riesling G-Max is very pure, fresh and chalky on the nose but also concentrated and ripe. On the palate, this is a very concentrated, intense, juicy, pure, mineral, tannic and well-structured Riesling with a lot of grip, tension and salt. Just one gram of residual sugar here, so don't expect a charming Riesling classic. This G-Max has truly fine tannins but nonetheless a lot of grip and tension. Still terribly young but full of character, purity and tension. This is incredibly structured Riesling and a final score is hard to give, although it won't get worse with age. 96+/100Abtserde:The 2016 Abts E(rde) Riesling GG is clear, intense and chalky on the concentrated, ripe and juicy nose. On the palate, this is a pure, intense and chalky Riesling with fine tannins, piquant acidity and great purity. This is very salty and grippy Riesling that is straight, dense and mineral. No fruit here but lots of crushed rocks and great tension. 94+/100Kirchspiel:Partly pressed in a basket press (60%), the 2016 Kirchspiel Riesling GG opens with a clear, fresh, chalky and intensely fruity nose. This is a rich, juicy, concentrated and fresh dry Riesling from calcareous soils that reveals a lot of tension, salt and vitality. Fine tannins here. Great concentration, juiciness and lingering salinity, with great grip and tension. An impressive wine! 93+/100Morstein:The 2016 Morstein Riesling GG is deep and mineral on the nose, still pretty reductive and almost leathery but ripe, concentrated and intense. On the palate, this is a powerful, pure and tannic Riesling with good grip, fine tannins and lots of salt. Great tension and very powerful. This promising wine needs some years to show its class. It's rare so if you see the bottle in a restaurant, just buy it to store instead of drink or, even better, order two, one for now, the other for later. 94+/100
Galloni über: Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«
-- Galloni: Hubacker:Quarry dust, bruised apple skin, zesty fresh lemon and flowering rosemary penetrate the nostrils. Stony, alkaline components on the firm palate are rather hard-edged, but there is a compensatory abundance of bright lemon and apple juiciness as well as a mouthwatering suffusion of mineral salts. The finish is strikingly penetrating and persistent, featuring lemon peel, rosemary, salt and stone. This is a Keller Hubacker of unusual animation and transparency. I’ll be very surprised if it does not significantly outlive its 2015 counterpart, not to mention prove consistently more fun to drink. 92/100Hipping:Tangerine, lime, Persian melon and Rainier cherry are fragrantly arrayed in anticipation of a luscious joint performance on this bottling’s silken palate. A smoky, lava salt savor and musky, narcissus-like floral perfume add to its seductive and mouthwatering inner-mouth appeal, while piquant hints of cherry pit and tangerine peel add delightful counterpoint on a buoyant, superbly sustained finish. At 11.5% alcohol and 17 grams of supportive but discreet residual sugar, this beauty – representing an amalgam of two casks – is stylistically very much in the mold of its wonderful vintage 2015 predecessor. 94/100G-Max:Lime, fennel and sea breeze on the nose set the stage for an equally pungent display of zesty citrus, bittersweet herbal concentrate and mouthwatering salinity on an expansive, faintly oily palate. Stony undertow and glowing citrus seed piquancy extend a long, mouthwateringly salt-tinged, intensely vibrant finish of sappy concentration, even if not one boasting the transparency, multiplicity or sheer refreshment of this year’s Abtserde. At the risk of sounding churlish, and while recognizing my great good fortune in being able to taste the annual editions of Keller’s always impressive G-Max, I can’t help suspecting that the long-standing cult status and the mystique of this Riesling from a never-to-be-mentioned site are what cause German wine critics to consistently rate it as the top wine in any given Keller collection. 95/100Abtserde:Fresh lime and white peach, iris, thyme, chalk and marine minerals are all intimated on the nose, then reconvene on a silken, buoyant, generously juicy palate. Even more than usual, the wine displays an intricate – almost lacy – complexity of herbal, floral, fruit and mineral elements, as well as a clarity that surpasses that of its fellow Keller Grosse Gewächse, impressive though they all are. Yet for all of its buoyancy and refinement, the mouthwateringly salt-tinged, near-endless finish is intensely reverberative and blazingly bright, revealing the maximum energy conveyed by any of Keller’s other dry 2016s, and all the while offering consummate refreshment. “You can tell from a wine like this,” noted Keller, “how Abtserde is a site that supports residual sweetness, unlike Morstein.” And you can also tell that it’s magical – irrespective of residual sugar. 97/100Kirchspiel:The nose here is surprisingly subdued, offering intimations of citrus and crushed stone. But the wine delivers a veritable mouthful of chalk along with juicy, oregano-laced lime, grapefruit and white peach. Firm in feel but not austerely hard, it finishes with a vivid sense of energy and a piquant peach kernel glow that never turns into outright bitterness or precludes a striking sense of transparency to stony and alkaline nuances. 93/100Morstein:A powerful, high-toned nose suggests plum distillate, strongly intimating the pit piquancy that emerges on a glossy, glycerol-rich, expansive palate. Buddleia and rosemary flower also waft from the glass and then add inner-mouth allure. There is a remarkable sense of sap and energy to the long, gripping, piquant yet refreshingly limey, juicy finish. Here is another instance where it’s impossible for me to avoid imagining that an extra percentage of alcohol would have driven this highly impressive performance into overly spirituous and outright bitter territory. This year, Keller employed some of his newly acquired, ancient Mosel fuders for fermenting and aging his Morstein, and not surprisingly, he said, “I like the fit.” 94/100
Klaus Peter Keller ist wahrlich ein Top-Winzer, der bestes Terroir mit Geschick und Einfühlungsvermögen zu traumhaften Weinen vermählt. Behutsam führt der ambitionierte Klaus Peter Keller seit diesem Jahrhundert die Weinerzeugung in zigster Generation fort, er, der vielleicht bei den trockenen...