Parker über:
Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«
-- Parker: AbtsE GG:The 2015 Westhofen Riesling Trocken GG Abts E (abbreviated as 'Abts E' since Abtserde isn't an official vineyard name) opens very clear, pure, delicate and fresh, but also concentrated (with grapefruit flavors!) and very mineral on the nose. This is a picture-book Riesling from (very active) limestone soils, where the terroir dominates the variety, at least on the nose. On the palate, this is a rich and powerful, silky textured, juicy and yet still concentrated and tightly woven wine. It has great intensity and minerality of stones, rocks and salt. It needs a lot of time to receive the finesse and purity of the mind-blowing Morstein, though. 95-97/100Morstein GG:From an old 0.67-hectare plot with high-density plantings and a low canopy wall, the 2015 Westhofen Morstein Riesling Trocken GG Alte Reben was picked in later October with 92/93° Oechsle and fermented fully dry. It intertwines intensity and power with purity, finesse and freshness like no other wine from Keller in 2015. Clear, pure, fine, fresh and smoky on the nose, with a coolish and unrivaled precise character, this highly elegant wine has great complexity. This is a finessed and singing Riesling with great old-vine intensity. It also has the purity and transparency of a fascinating terroir Riesling from limestone. The wine has that ripeness, intensity, power and concentration of 2015, but there is so much lightness, freshness, silkiness and grip here, too. The acidity is very fine, but vital, and the texture is silky. The grippy finish is full of tension, piquancy and salinity. It's virtually endless in its weightless intensity. This is a benchmark Riesling for 2015 and the most serious rival of the 2015 Forster Pechstein from Reichsrat von Buhl. 'We halved the Morstein quantity since 2011 (5,000 bottles) for the GG, because we harvest only the oldest vines now,' says Keller, referring to the 70-year-old plot. Keller's 2015 Morstein Riesling GG is the most finessed that I have ever tasted from this domaine. Châpeau! 96-98/100G-Max:The iconic 2015 Riesling G-Max offers a deep, clear, pure and intense bouquet of ripe seed, stone and a touch of tropical fruits that is perfectly intertwined with smoky crushed limestone, herbal and floral flavors. Dense, round, tight and vivacious on the palate, this is a very pure and mineral Riesling of great finesse and elegance. It is a dense and very complex, yet perfectly balanced, long and stimulatingly salty wine with an intense and persistent fruit core. A perfect blend of earlier and late harvested grapes that were slowly pressed with the basket press, like all of the crus and sweet wines at Keller. 94-96/100Hubacker GG:Citrus-colored, the 2015 Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling Trocken GG has a really ripe, intense, yet elegant and almost tropical-flavored bouquet. It does not lack the precision and chalky lemon flavor of the 'Hubi' limestone rock terroir. Powerful, dense and complex on the palate, this has the grip and mineral tension of a great wine. This is probably the most vital and concentrated 'Hubi' I have tasted so far. It is enormously salty and tension-filled, but at the same time very fine and as fruit-drive as it is chalk-driven. The finish is tight, long, pure and powerful, and its endless salinity, piquancy and tension make it incredibly stimulating. This is a great dry German Riesling or, as Keller puts it: 'This is how Hubacker should taste.“ 94-95/100Kirchspiel GG:From 51-year-old vines on very barren rocks, Keller's 2015 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken GG is clear, intense and precise on the nose. It is very ripe and concentrated, provided with refreshingly chalky lemon and even discreet mocha/nougat flavors. Great purity and vitality on the palate, but it also has lots of power! Its power is very well captured by the concentration of everything: fruit, minerals and acidity. The 2015 Kirchspiel is full of terroir and vintage expression, a dense and round, yet tension-filled and vitalizing Riesling. This wine has a very linear and straight-forward character, with an enormous complexity and power, as well as finesse, grip and minerality. Keller's Kirchspiel was picked in two passes: one earlier and one later. 'It was important to keep the grapes shadowed and to not pick too early,' says Keller, who was still full of fear in August, due to the drought and heat. But he is pretty happy with the result, today. 93-94/100Pettenthal:Still yeasty (like beer yeast!) and a bit untamed on the intense and flinty nose, the medium-dry 2015 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling 'VDP Grosse Lage' is from a very small and shallow part with very stony soils (just 0.29 hectares yielding 20 hectoliters per hectare). The wine starts cool and fresh, very stony and flinty, with an iron-rich and still reductive nose. On the palate, this is a rich and juicy, generous and really powerful, but still elegant and expressive wine. It has lots of salt and a lingering fruit intensity. It is a powerful, but also tension-filled wine with lots of salt and stones on the tongue. Still young, but greater and more complex compared to the Hipping. Keller says that the Pettenthal was fermented two months longer, is a bit drier, but has less alcohol (12% compared to 12.5% in the Hipping). It is a very promising wine and a great Riesling for sure. 94-95/100Hipping H.M:From Keller's very steep hillside plot with high density plantings, the 2015 Nierstein Hipping Riesling has a lovely, clear, precise and smoky/flinty bouquet with a delicate concentration and red slate flavor. This Hipping is an intense and round, enormously juicy, yet fine and persistent Riesling. It has tension, grip and purity on the palate. This is a great, lush and beautiful wine that is among the very best produced in Nierstein in 2015. Not full dry, it will go for at least two decades. Yield was 28 hectoliters per hectare, so very small quantities here. 93-94/100AbtsE Auslese GK:The gold-capsuled 2015 Riesling Auslese Abts E Gold Capsule displays a very clear, highly delicate, precise and perfectly raisiny bouquet with a great precision and finesse. This Riesling is intense and concentrated, as well as piquant and mineral on the palate. This elegant Auslese reveals complexity, a firm and salty mineral structure and a long, persistent finish. The sweetness is captured by the immense minerality and a remarkable acidity of 12.8 gram per liter! This is a gorgeous Auslese than can compete with the very finest in Germany. 96/100
