Parker über:
Sammlerbox: Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion
-- Parker: Chateau Ausone: Amazing! The limestone soils of Ausone appear to have been the perfect foil for resisting the extreme heat and drought of June, July and August, 2003. This black/purple-colored effort boasts a glorious nose of violets, truffles, lead pencil shavings, blueberry and blackberry liqueur. Full-bodied with staggering concentration, a voluptuous texture, low acidity and well-integrated, melted tannins, this deep, multidimensional, profound Bordeaux is beginning to drink exceptionally well. It should continue to do so for another two decades or more. 100/100 *** Chateau Haut Brion: The 2003 Haut-Brion reveals the vintage’s opulence and low acidity, but it possesses an even higher tannin level than the 2000. A deep ruby/purple color accompanies classic aromas of cranberries, scorched earth, minerals, and blue as well as black fruit notes. It hits the palate with considerable richness and intensity, but is neither overripe nor heavy. Cropped at low yields of 36 hectoliters per hectare, it has a good inner core of depth as well as sweetness. I do not think it will hit the heights of the perfect 1989, but it is a beautifully made, broad, medium to full-bodied claret with vigor, freshness, great texture, and not one trace of over-ripeness. 95-98/100 *** Chateau Lafite Rothschild: The 2003 Lafite Rothschild comes as close to perfection as any of the great Lafites made over the past three decades (1982, 1986, 1996, 2000, 2005, 2008, 2009 and 2010). This sensational effort came in at 12.7% natural alcohol, it is made in the style of one of this estate’s great classics, the 1959. Composed of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it exhibits a dense ruby/purple color to the rim along with a luxurious bouquet of cedarwood, lead pencil shaving, white chocolate, cocoa and cassis. Fat, rich, opulent and full-bodied with low acidity and stunning seductiveness and complexity, this noble wine possesses a bountiful, generous, heady style. It is just coming into its plateau of maturity where it should hold for 20-25 years. This is one of the candidates for the wine of the vintage – make no mistake about that. 100/100 *** Chateau Latour: 2003 was one of the hottest, earliest Bordeaux vintages ever. Some vines suffered from lack of moisture, but old vines and clay subsoil at Enclos saw this vineyard through. The Merlot harvest occurred between September 8 and 13, and the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked between September 22 and 30. The 2003 Latour is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. Six percent of the press wine was added to the final blend. It has a medium to deep garnet-purple color, then wow—it explodes from the glass with bombastic black and blue fruits, followed up by meat, wood smoke, sandalwood and Indian spice accents with underlying floral wafts. The palate is full, rich, velvety, seductive and very long on the finish. There were only 10,800 cases made (rather than the normal 15,000-20,000). 100/100 *** Chateau Margaux: Am I being too stingy with the 2003 Chateau Margaux? A wine of extraordinary complexity and intensity, it reveals a deep purple color, a style not unlike the 1990 Margaux (possibly even more concentrated), a velvety texture, and notes of spring flowers interwoven with camphor, melted licorice, creme de cassis, and pain grille. Not a blockbuster, it offers extraordinary intensity as well as a surreal delicacy/lightness. There is riveting freshness to this offering, which tips the scales at a lofty (for this estate) 13.5% alcohol, as well as an alluring sweetness and accessibility. It probably will tighten up over the next few years. Nevertheless, it is a profound Chateau Margaux that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1990. 99/100 *** Chateau Mouton-Rothschild: Made from low yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, this profound blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot possesses a finished pH of 3.8, alcohol of 12.9% (nearly identical to Lafite Rothschild in that sense), and 3.5 total acidity (much higher than the other first growths). The 2003 is similar in style to Mouton’s 1982, but softer and more pliable than that wine was at the same age. The Cabernet Sauvignon harvest began on the same day it did in both 1982 and 1947 ... an interesting coincidence. Black/purple-colored to the rim, with a gorgeous nose of espresso roast intermixed with classic Mouton creme de cassis liqueur-like notes, its powerful, unctuous flavors cascade over the palate revealing tremendous intensity as well as strong tannin. This enormously endowed 2003 is still sorting itself out, but it is unquestionably one of the greatest efforts of the vintage. If my instincts are correct, it is the ripest, most flamboyant Mouton-Rothschild since the 1982. 95-98/100 Chateau Petrus: A tiny production and probably the earliest harvest ever at Petrus (September 3, 4, and 17, the latter date for the Cabernet Franc), this is one of the great wines and an extraordinary achievement for a Pomerol in this vintage. It was the famous blue clay terroir of Petrus that saved this vineyard from the drought conditions that undid most of the nearby Pomerols, which possess more gravel and sand in their soils. There are only 1,650 cases of the 2003 Petrus as opposed to 1,780 cases of the 2002 (production in abundant years is 4,000 cases). This extraordinarily dense, powerful, full-bodied wine has a dark plum/purple color to the rim and an exceptional bouquet of black raspberries, sweet cherries, vanilla, licorice, and a hint of fig. The wine is powerful and full-bodied with magnificent concentration, huge structure, yet amazing freshness and overall elegance given the size, muscle, and power of this wine. Qualitatively towering above every other Pomerol as well as most of the neighboring St.-Emilions, it is a wine of great density, nobility, and potential longevity. 96-98/100
