Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda 2021

Companhia de Vinhos dos Profetas e dos Villões: Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda 2021


Listan Blanco 100%
weiß, trocken
13,0% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2024–2040
Verpackt in: 6er
frische Säure
voll & rund
Lobenberg: 96+/100
Jancis Robinson zu 2020: 19/20
Parker zu 2020: 95/100
Portugal, Madeira
Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda 2021


Lobenberg: 100 Prozent Listrão, das ist der Name der selben Rebsorte auf Porto Santo (einer Nachbarinsel Madeiras) die in Jerez Palomino Fino und auf Teneriffa Listan Blanco heißt. Die über 80 Jahre alten Reben wachsen in Buschform, ganz nahe am Boden, damit sie nicht von dem starken Wind auf der Insel beschädigt werden, zum Teil wurden sogar kleine Steinmauern um sie herum gebaut, um sie zu schützen. Die Böden der Lage sind kalk- und lehmhaltig. Hier muss alles in reiner, mühsamer Handarbeit bearbeitet werden. Die Trauben werden Eimer für Eimer gelesen, bevor sie in einem Kühlwagen mit dem Schiff nach Madeira zum Weingut transportiert werden. Traditionell wurden die Trauben für auf der Insel sehr reif gelesen. Die erste Pressung gab einen leichteren Wein, die letzte Pressung, die den intensivsten Wein ergibt, wurde »Vinho da Corda« genannt. Ganztraubenpressung ohne Zugabe von Schwefel. Der Vinho da Corda ist der reichhaltigste Weißwein der Vinhos dos Profetas. Er steht mit mittlerem Goldgelb im Glas. Dieses kristalline, präzise Salz-Aroma springt geradezu aus dem Glas, stilistisch ist dieser Wein eine Mischung aus Sherry und einem nussigen, cremigen, im Holzfass ausgebauten Weißwein mit ordentlich Druck und viel Würze im Mund. Ultra spannend und so hoch individuell, ich bin echt begeistert von diesem spannenden Stoff, leider gibt es nicht mal 600 Flaschen davon. Antonio Macanita ist einer der begnadetsten Winzer Portugals. 96+/100


Jancis Robinson zu 2020 über: Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda

-- Jancis Robinson zu 2020: Deep gold. Deep and intense aroma that is very hard to describe but brings together aromas of bitter apricot, barley sugar (a type of hard candy), dried grasses and a nutty, spiced impression. Dry, incredibly fresh and salty on the palate, with eye-watering intensity and all just in balance for a serious roller-coaster tasting experience: there's richness, power, mouth-grabbing freshness and immense length. On the aftertaste there's curry leaf as well as that mouth-watering saltiness. Outstanding wine. Winemaking magician Maçanita describes it as a cross between Jerez and Madeira and he is so right. I hope there will be more bottles in the next vintage. 19/20


Parker zu 2020 über: Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda

-- Parker zu 2020: The 2020 Listrão dos Profetas Vinho do P. Santo Vinho da Corda is all Listrão (a.k.a. Palomino Fino) aged for 12 months in very old Madeira wine casks from Blandy's (where these were bottled). It comes in nicely dry (1.5 grams of residual sugar and 7.3 of total acidity) and at 14,3% alcohol. This is basically the same wine as the regular this issue, except for that 'Vinho da Corda' part. Only the last pressing, about one-third of the juice, was used for this fermentation. António Maçanita said that this is locally known as Vinho da Corda, meaning “wine of the rope.” That, he said, was the old pressing system where the cage was made of rope, relating to the last squeeze of the press, which was 'perceived as the best pressings for the 'Porto Santo Wine' style that is a kind of natural Madeira wine without any fortification.' That Vinho da Corda vinification matters a lot. This is completely different than the regular bottling, that's for sure, as Maçanita's description suggests. This has the feel of a fortified wine in richness (although it's not). If someone guessed it was a dryish White Colheita Port or Madeira, they'd be ignoring a few things, but there are some echoes. Maçanita said to me that this was the way the locals did their unfortified, high alcohol wines, with only the ripeness of the grapes. 'I am very excited with this because we might [be] tasting what Madeiras [were like] before fortification started in the mid-17th century!' The color is several shades darker than the regular Listrão, and the power is more substantial too. The finish is simply gripping. It never seems unbalanced, though, because the richness counters the power easily. If you're looking for a white table wine, this is, to be sure, something of an outlier compared to the regular, which is a normal table wine. Those who love Vinho da Corda will think it is sensational. I suspect some will think this is not really what they are looking for. At the least, how you use it will be different. This would work well on its own and also pair well with rich foods. It should age rather well, but since there is no track record for this debut bottling, let's take that in stages and start here. It drinks great today, in case you are wondering. 95/100

Weingut über: Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda

-- Weingut: The 'Vinho da Corda' (rope wine) was one of the ways that 'liqueur wines' were used in the past before the arrival of brandy in the mid-17th century. The vines previously planted by the sea were harvested when fully ripe, almost stale, allowing for a must naturally strong in alcohol. The technique consisted of crushing these grapes in a press, from which a first wine “Flor” came out, a lighter and fresher wine, but it was from the last pressing the so-called “Vinho da Corda” that the must was squeezed with more flavor and a golden and loaded appearance, so fashionable at the time. This “Vinho da Corda” comes from one of those sunny Porto Santo vineyards and shows the potential of this island for these natural oxidative wines. The grapes were harvested manually, on Saturday 14th August on the island of Porto Santo, chosen bucket by bucket and loaded onto a cold truck, for transport by boat to the island of Madeira (since it is not legal to make wine in Porto Santo). At 11 am, whole bunch press to decantation deposits inside a refrigerated container, with three pressing fractions being separated, without any use of SO2. The last fraction of the press, “o mosto da Corda”, was transferred to old wine barrels to ferment and age for 10 months. Golden yellow color, almost copper, very intense nose, caramelized salt, somewhere between a Madeira and a Jerez wine, unique and singular, with metalic, iodized and intense notes. Full-bodied, full on the palate, super concentrated with a lot of persistence.

Listrão dos Profetas Vinho da Corda 2021