Azores Wine Company: Vinha dos Utras 2019

2: Arinto dos Acores 95%, diverse autochthone Reben 5%

5: weiß, trocken; 12,0% Vol.; Trinkreife: 2025–2050; Verpackt in: 3er

9: mineralisch; frische Säure

3: Lobenberg: 100/100; Jancis Robinson: 19/20

6: Portugal, Azoren

7: Allergene: Sulfite, Abfüllerinformation
Abfüller / Importeur: Azores Wine Company, Rua dos Biscoitos, no3 Sao Mateus, Madalena, PORTUGAL

Lobenberg: Der Vinha dos Utras kommt von den Azoren! Nur 1.166 produzierte Flaschen. Die 80 Jahre alte Reben wurzeln auf massivem Lavagestein, nur 80 Meter vom Meer entfernt. Hier ist die Sonneneinstrahlung extrem hoch, so erreichen die Trauben trotz des rauen Atlantikklimas ihre maximale, aromatische Konzentration. Eigentlich ist diese besondere Parzelle ein gemischter Satz, den Großteil macht mit 95% aber die Rebsorte Arinto dos Açores aus, daneben einige Reben Verdelho, Boal (Malvasia Fina) und Alicante Branco (Boal de Alicante). Die handgelesenen Trauben werden penibel selektiert, direkt gepresst und dann zu 70% im Edelstahl ausgebaut. Die restlichen 30% kommen für 9 Monate in gebrauchte Barriques, allerdings ohne Bâtonnage, um die Frische beizubehalten. In der Nase ist das spektakulär; feine Reduktion, viel Feuerstein, Grapefruit und Austernschale. Hochkomplex und mineralisch, dabei frisch wie eine kühle Meeresbrise. Am Gaumen dann hohe Pikanz und Intensität bei sagenhaft niedrigen 12% Alkohol. Unglaublich druckvoll und tief-mineralisch; dazu kommt ein schönes Potpourri aus Zitrusfrüchten; mundwässernde Limette, leicht herb von Grapefruit und Bitterorange, dazu etwas süße Mandarine. Auf der Zunge liegt eine Salzspur wie von Meersalzflocken, der Abgang ist so unendlich lang. Er braucht ganz sicher noch etwas Zeit, aber auch jung - in diesem schönen, leckeren Stadium - ist das schon eine Sensation. Ein echter Grand Cru von so besonderem Terroir und ziemlich weit vorn bei den großen Weißweinen dieser Welt. 100/100

Jancis Robinson über: Vinha dos Utras

-- Jancis Robinson: Full bottle 1,260 g. Bottle 1,002 out of 1,166. Field blend but more than 95% Arinto dos Açores. The producer explains that for more than 500 years, vines have been planted in the cracks of the lava bed, a few metres from the ocean. Even before the vineyards were planted (date not certain but thanks to documentation in the books of Gaspar Frutuoso, likely to have been some time between the end of the 15th century and 1580, when Frutuoso died), the de Utra family (now spelt Dutras) were on the island, descendants of Joss Hurtere, a Flemish man who arrived in 1465 and became Captain of Pico and Fayal. His role was crucial in the development of the islands and vineyards. Winemaker António Maçanita writes, 'This vineyard was passed to us by the descendants of this family along with the responsibility of its continuation. This small plot is planted the closest to the ocean possible, in the “1st Jeirões”, where you can get maximum sunlight exposure and concentration.' As well as Arinto dos Açores, the 60- to 80-year-old vineyard, 80 metres from the sea, includes Verdelho, Boal (Malvasia Fina) and Alicante Branco (Boal de Alicante). The soils are solid lava stone formed 1,500 to 2,000 years ago. Grapes are hand-picked, sorted, direct pressed, cold-settled for 12 hours, first-press juice vinified in horizontal stainless-steel tanks (70%), second pressings fermented in 3-year-old French oak barrels (30%), without bâtonnage, for 9 months. Mid gold. Intense, deep, savoury aroma, outstandingly complex. There's quite a marked toasty aroma considering there's such restrained use of oak, and no new oak, and a hint of struck-match (reduction or volcanic vineyard location?) but there's also bitter orange, and an undeniable salty note. On the palate, this is incredibly concentrated and yet bursting with citrus energy on a foundation of deep fruit and creamy texture. Salty, long aftertaste. One of the most beautiful, intense and yet alive wines I have tasted. It is rare and expensive but worth every one of its €240. Wonderful to have this much intensity at just 12% alcohol. 19/20

Weingut über: Vinha dos Utras

-- Weingut: Produced from a vineyard with 60 to 80 years old, 80 meters from the sea, dominating the Arinto of the Azores, but there are also Verdelho, Boal (Malvasia Fina) and Alicante Branco (Boal de Alicante). The soils are solid lava stone formed 1500 to 2000 years ago. Grapes hand-picked, sorting table, direct press, decanted 12h in cold, first presses vinified in stainless steel in horizontal (70%), 2nd presses fermented in French oak barrels of 3 years age (30%), without batonnage for 9 months. Yellow citrus-straw color, iodine flavor, salt, linden. In the mouth concentrated dense attack, acidity cuts in the middle and stays until the end of the taste, salt, salt, salt and iodine, is a 'slap' of sea.

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