Michelini i Mufatto Bierzo: MA Godello 2023

: Godello 100%

: weiß, trocken; 12,5% Vol.; Trinkreife: 2026–2038

: frische Säure; mineralisch

: Lobenberg: 94–95/100; Tim Atkin: 97/100; Galloni: 96/100; Suckling: 95/100; Parker: 94+/100

: Spanien, Bierzo

: Allergene: Sulfite,

Abfüller / Importeur: Michelini i Mufatto, Calle Peña Picón, 6, 24500 Villafranca del Bierzo, León, SPAIN

Lobenberg: Reine Godello in extrem gradliniger Ausprägung. Klare mineralische Definition, Salz und Bitterstoffe, eher straffe weiße und etwas grünliche Frucht, Mandeln und grüner Oliven auf unreifer Aprikose und Steinsalz, viel Zug und Power aber Null Fett sondern nur gradlinige Fokussierung und Mineralität. Dazu erstaunlich aromatischer Schmelz und leicht sahniger Trinkfluss, Salz, Mineralität, Stein und fruchtig leckerer Überbau mit einem kleinen Karamell-Honig-Finish stehen in perfekter Harmonie. Ein sehr schöner und hedonistischer Tropfen und trotz seines hohen Anspruchs auch everybodys darling.

2023 war sehr warm, aber er ist deutlich kühler und balancierter als der noch heißere und trockenere 2022. Nicht so aufregend und extrem wie 2021, eher eine reife und harmonische Version von 2020. Und so ist 2023 durchaus eine Fortsetzung der so großen Jahrgänge seit 2019. Luis Gutierez, Parkers Mann für Spanien, fasst den Jahrgang 2023 anhand von Alvaro Palacios Weingütern ganz im Westen und ganz im Osten, somit Landesübergreifend so zusammen: 2023 was an even more generous crop than 2022 … the wines have better balance, and it doesn't feel like a warm year at all. In fact, the wines feel more like they come from a cool year. It's a vintage that has a tendency toward reduction, not as much as 2020, but still reductive. But it's an elegant, stony reduction...The quality of the 2023s is stunning. There is a level of precision, cleanliness, symmetry and elegance that, if the end of the élevage and the bottling goes as expected, I must conclude that 2023 might be the finest vintage ... There might be other individual wines that reach higher peaks, but as an overall portfolio, the vintage 2023 represents the strongest collection ever produced.

Tim Atkin über: MA Godello

-- Tim Atkin: Oak aged Godello, this wine offers a satisfying richness and great varietal expression. It is aged for 20 months in foudres, the whole time on lees but without bâtonnage, resulting in a subtle creaminess. Golden Delicious apple and pear merge with subtle vanilla and incense spice which make for a complex and layered expression. The oak is very subtle and now a little older so simply caresses the wine which is a truly compelling interpretation of a Bierzo white.

Galloni über: MA Godello

-- Galloni: The 2023 Godello MA is a blend of parcels from the San Lorenzo area in Bierzo. This aged for 14 months in barrels, 20% of which were new. It opens with subtle nutty notes, hints of green apple, soft pear and oak framing the background. Full-bodied and supple, this offers a vibrant, energetic and lifted palate with excellent mouthfeel.

Suckling über: MA Godello

-- Suckling: The nose shows dried lemons and subtle green mangoes. The palate is angular and linear, medium- to full-bodied, yet fresh and vertical, remaining balanced by a fine textural element that emerges toward the finish. A pure godello from the Valdecanada area in Ponferrada. Aged for two winters in used 225-liter barriques. Drink now.

Parker über: MA Godello

-- Parker: The 2023 Godello was produced with grapes from the lieu-dit La Mata in Villalibre de la Juridiccion, Prianza del Bierzo. It fermented with the full lees and indigenous yeasts and was produced with the juice from the pressing of the full clusters. It was kept in barrel for two springs, and some of the barrels developed a layer of flor yeasts. It has contained ripeness, 12% alcohol and 6.3 grams of acidity. It has a bright golden color and a reticent nose, very serious and austere, going beyond the varietal profile and reflecting the soil more. It's more serious and has more depth. They did a shorter élevage this time. 1,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2025.

Mein Winzer