Kühling–Gillot: Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs 2022

Kühling–Gillot: Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs 2022

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Begrænset

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Riesling 100%
hvid, tør
12,5% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2030–2053
mineralsk
fyldig og rund
Lobenberg: 99–100/100
Lobenberg in Wiesbaden: 100/100
Suckling: 99/100
Parker: 98+/100
Tyskland, Rheinhessen
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs 2022

99–100
/100

Parcellen, som vinen stammer fra, blev plantet i 1934 og er omgivet af en lille mur. Det er en ekstremt stejl del af Rothenberg, som er den nordligste spids af Roter Hang, der støder direkte op til Pettenthal. Oprindeligt en meget fin, delikat reduktion. Fin, varm citrusfrugt. Salt citron og også grapefrugt vendt i salt. Så kommer de virkelig skarpe urtenuancer. Grillede middelhavsurter, kastanjer, understøttet af en tæt, røget flint. Mørk og et eller andet sted så mystisk, men mere afbalanceret og måske noget at foretrække frem for den ekstremt dramatiske 21'er. Grafitmørke i mineraliteten, der griber dig og bærer dig væk. Indgangen til munden er eksplosiv, men alligevel så raffineret, at man ikke kan forstå det, ultrafin syre, en anelse finere og mere afbalanceret end 21 måske. Bagved ligger fint salt, varme sten, alt spiller sammen. Kraftfuld, presserende på ganen med en så tæt, stenet mineralitet. Vibrationer og vanvittig kraft, dette er et stenmonster i sin ultra-puristiske, mørke form. Der er ingen frugt at finde her. Finishen er varm fra stenen, syren slutter næsten lidt cremet, men alligevel levende. Dette er en fysisk oplevelse med et vidunderligt samspil af teksturer. Jeg er blæst bagover af den vægtløse intensitet og dramaturgi, som Rothenberg afvikler på ganen. 99-100/100

Årsrapporten

Den paradoksale ekstreme årgang 2022 fremstår i Tyskland som overraskende elegant, tilgængelig og fin. Uden spor af varmefyldt frodighed charmerer topvinene med moden syrebalance, tydelig terroir-karakter og dansende glans – en ekstremt selektiv, men i toppen historisk stor succes.

Smagsnotat
100
/100

Lobenberg in Wiesbaden om: Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs

Tro mod roden, sjælden, dyr. Et mirakel af harmoni i 2022. Ren balance. Gør røddernes ægthed denne mærkbare forskel? Stor dyr vin, uanset hvorfor. Helt, ubesværet og lækker perfektion. 100/100

99
/100

Suckling om: Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs

A giant dry riesling that manages to be extremely concentrated, very powerful but also cool and incredibly precise. The super-fine apricot aroma has a hypnotic effect on you. Then comes the almost endless and totally mineral finish that has a mystery only time - and many years of bottle age - will unravel. Patience, patience, patience! Drinkable now, but best from 2026. 99/100

98+
/100

Parker om: Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs

From ungrafted vines planted in the 1930s on an elevated and protected terrace (1,800 square meters), the 2022 Nackenheim Rothenberg GG Wurzelecht is deep, pure and refined on the nose that delivers a highly complex bouquet with very fine hazelnut aromas (from the halbstück). As sensational as the bouquet is, the palate is pure, enormously salivating and provided with very fine tannins that intertwine with the crystalline, finely grained acidity. This is an elegant, refined and complex Riesling, and everything that will be delivered in the future is already represented on the finish and aftertaste. The best vintage since 2019? Possibly. It's highly promising. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2023. 98+/100With the true-rooted Rothenberg, a Riesling that may even be perfect after a few years of maturing in the bottle, H. O. Spanier has produced one of the outstanding wines of the vintage. In this report of more than 800 wines, there is certainly no wine that I have rated equally highly, let alone higher. It certainly has the potential for 100 points and justifies its high price of 225 euros per bottle, especially as the number is very limited anyway. The Pettenthal, from what is possibly the steepest vineyard in Rheinhessen, is also a masterpiece from a thoroughly challenging vintage. It could only be managed with low yields and adapted vineyard work. In the 2021 vintage, H. O. Spanier also succeeded in producing an excellent Pinot Noir in the Oppenheimer Kreuz, probably the finest for at least 10 years. More details about this producer can be found in the entry Battenfeld Spanier, the other brand of this winery, whose name Spanier-Gillot has so far only appeared in small print in favor of the more established winery names such as Kühling-Gillot. The wines for both brands are fermented (spontaneously) and aged in predominantly large wooden casks in Hohen-Sülzen, home of the former Battenfeld-Spanier domaine.

Min vinmager

Kühling-Gillot

Carolin Spanier-Gillot, man kunne også kalde hende Grande Dame af Rheinhessen. Hun og hendes mand H.O. Spanier fra vingården Battenfeld-Spanier forenes af deres dybe forbindelse til naturen, som kommer til udtryk i deres økologiske og siden 2005 biodynamiske måde at arbejde på. Derudover bringer...

Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg wurzelecht Großes Gewächs 2022