Parker über:
Sammlerbox: Keller-Kiste »Von Den Grossen Lagen«
-- Parker: 2013 G-Max: Nobody – except of the one or the other retailer and all the trainees – will ever know where the expensive, iconic G-Max is sourced from. It's surely from a limestone site but is it Kirchspiel, Morstein, Brunnenhäuschen (Abtserde), Hubacker or another single vineyard site? Try to find it out – it would be a fascinating task since you could not disgrace yourself like I would. The perfume of the 2013 Riesling trocken G-Max is fascinatingly clear, fresh, complex and concentrated: crushed rocks, spinach, basil and spices are intertwined with steely, iron, and chalky aromas but also peach, lemons and paprika. Full-bodied and highly complex, this is a dense, vibrant, extremely tension-filled, electrifying, long-distance runner of a Riesling that is firmly structured and full of citrus flavors in the finish that is extremely long, long, and longer as it leads to a persistently piquant aftertaste. Although I was always a sceptic of legendary wines with no declared origin, this is surely an absolutely fascinating and multilayered wine to keep for at least 5 years. 95-96/100 *** 2013 Morstein GG: Picked with just 11 hectoliters per hectare and fermented with 50% to 60% of the stems, Keller's cherry-colored 2013 Morstein Spätburgunder trocken GG shows a beautifully ripe, sweet, intense but refined and floral-scented grand cru bouquet of red, ripe, dark berries along with spicy flavors. Full-bodied, velvety, concentrated and round on the palate, this is a very generous and relaxed, juicy Pinot of great intensity, elegance and finesse. The tannins are extremely fine here and the finish is gorgeous. Bottled end of August 2015 after 23 months in two-year-old barrels, this is world class Pinot Noir from Germany. The texture of the Morstein is so different from the Frauenberg and the Bürgel but the reasons for this are not easy to find. Mass selections? Old vines? The fact that the shots are not headed but winded so that the grapes and berries remain smaller? When Klaus Peter and Julia Keller grafted Pinot selections from Burgundy on the old Sylvaner vines, his father Klaus termed this act 'a waste of time and money,' and promised to put his feet in this vineyard never again. Today he is fairly proud to know that such a lovely Pinot Noir comes from his beloved Sylvaner vineyard. 95/100 *** 2013 Kirchspiel GG: Straw yellow/white golden in color, the 2013 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling trocken offers a deep, dense and complex, fascinatingly pure and developing bouquet of powdered limestone, peeled limes, herbs (tarragon) and white peaches. Rich, round, and complex on the palate, this medium to full-bodied, concentrated, juicy yet firmly structured, piquant and persistently mineral Riesling has a refreshingly citric, stimulating finish and can age at least for a decade. 93+/100 *** 2013 Hubacker GG: The 2013 Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling trocken is not a wine for easy consumption since the nose already is developing from minute to minute gaining more and more complex. Unusually pure and mineral on the nose, the 'Hubi' 2013 offers rather green flavors of limes, herbs, peas, tobacco, and morels along with just a hint of pie-plant. Full-bodied, intense, piquant and penetrating mineral makes this 2013 one of, if not the most, impressive Hubackers Keller ever produced. The combination of finesse and elegance with power and persistence is really fascinating here. 93/100 ***
