Parker om:
Verdello Antiguo
There is a very old clone of Godello that he has recovered from a massal selection from the mountain vineyards to produce an almost experimental 2019 Verdello Antiguo, the local name of the variety that is quite different from the clone that was selected; it's less fruit-driven and delivers a nice expression of the soil, sharper on slate than on granite sand (where there's more clay and it's silkier). The vines are now 21 years old and are planted on slate and sand. The juice from pressing the full clusters fermented in used 500-liter French oak barrels, where it was kept with lees for six months followed by five months in stainless steel. It has a beautiful nose of pollen, dried flowers and herbs (bay leaf?), reminiscent of chamomile, structured and juicy with good acidity, textured and with great grip. It's a powerful, round and ripe white for the long haul, with 13.53% alcohol and very good freshness. It finishes long and tasty, with a clear bitter twist. This is expressive and approachable. A different expression of Godello. 1,151 bottles were filled in August 2020.
