Schloss Johannisberg: Riesling Goldlack 2022

Schloss Johannisberg: Riesling Goldlack 2022

Riesling 100%
hvid, tør
12,5% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2025–2056
Lobenberg: 100/100
Suckling: 99/100
Colin Hay: 98/100
Decanter: 97/100
Galloni: 96/100
Tyskland, Rheingau
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Riesling Goldlack 2022

100
/100

Gæringen og den 36 måneder lange modning foregår for denne vins vedkommende hovedsageligt i vingårdens traditionelle 1.200-liters tønder og i mindre grad i barrique-fade. Efter det første år flyttes vinen til den nederste del af kælderen, hvor den modnes ved 10 grader Celsius, altså ved ekstremt lave temperaturer. Lys strågul farve med olieagtige tårer langs glassets kant. Duften er virkelig enestående, næsten burgundisk! Modne røde og gule æbler, samt hvidkødet pære og saftig nektarin. Cremet honningmelon, bivoks og et fint strejf af vanilje. Aromerne af cremet, nuanceret krydderi er forbløffende: varmt, krydret kanel, et strejf af vanilje, muskatnød og laurbærblad. Svævende og ophøjet på samme tid – fascinationen er allerede i næsen på et helt nyt niveau, og vinen byder på den ene eller anden aromatiske overraskelse. Den cremede indgang i munden efterfølges straks af en laserlignende, ultrapræcis syre, der skærer igennem den cremede hvide og gule frugt og alligevel afslører, at vinen ikke er en Bourgogne! Mandarin, lidt mandarinskal, kandiseret citron og saltcitron, saftig hvid fersken igen med et strejf af cremet vanilje. I eftersmagen hænger denne ekstremt intense, stenede mineralitet i minutter, salt og vævet sammen med gule frugter i munden. Vinen er yderst elegant, charmerende og fascinerende. En spændingsfyldt, raffineret Riesling i særklasse og en vin med stor, ja, fænomenal elegance og finesse.

Årsrapporten

Den paradoksale ekstreme årgang 2022 fremstår i Tyskland som overraskende elegant, tilgængelig og fin. Uden spor af varmefyldt frodighed charmerer topvinene med moden syrebalance, tydelig terroir-karakter og dansende glans – en ekstremt selektiv, men i toppen historisk stor succes.

99
/100

Suckling om: Riesling Goldlack

For a vintage that was so challenging, because it was so hot and so dry, this has an amazing, flinty vitality and super-dense apricot, apricot-skin and mirabelle-plum flavors on the very focused, medium-bodied palate. Then a huge wave of stone minerality hits you but, after it has passed, the finish is as still as a mountain lake. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Almost limitless aging potential. Drink from release.

Smagsnotat
98
/100

Colin Hay om: Riesling Goldlack

(Rheingau; 100% Riesling; 1200 bottles; 33 months of aging in oak; 12.5% alcohol). There’s an enticing touch of Tutankhamun gold to this and there’s a step up in the intensity of the citrus and flint notes in comparison with the Orangelack in this exquisite and exciting wine from Schloss Johannisberg. It’s perhaps a little more essentially Riesling with fewer of the more tropical notes of the Orangelack cuvee and the slightly hint of the service station forecourt alongside the polished pebbles in a babbling brook. Almost a touch of damson skin and just a hint of its tannins. Incredibly vibrant, bright, fresh and crisp – rapier-like in its precision to the point where you feel you might cut your tongue on its vivid mineral-encrusted steely central spine. Lime and pink grapefruit and an almost electrical freshness.

97
/100

Decanter om: Riesling Goldlack

Aromas of petrol, lychee and wild jasmine flowers with white pepper and dried thyme. Thick and unctuous, but so alive and really piercing - this makes you sit up and take notice. Utterly filling in every way, confident and shining, it has a wonderful viscosity to it, complex and captivating - honeyed with some bitter caramel and toasted edges but lovely bright, citrus acidity too. Sweet lemon and lime with some sugary peach and a salty, mineral touch to the finish that elongates the expression. I adore this - a wine you can’t help but fall in love with. First year conversion to organic. An overall hot and dry vintage with one of the hottest August’s in recent years although more rain fell than average in September and October bringing relief to the vines. The harvest started early on 22 September. Ageing on the lees for 24 months. 3.9g/L residual sugar. 7.6g/L acidity.

96
/100

Galloni om: Riesling Goldlack

The 2022 Riesling Schloss Johannisberg Goldlack is a dry wine to sit above the GG with extended aging on lees in the lowest, coolest part of the historic cellar. It has a shimmering golden hue and projects a supple, smooth coolness. A bigger glass and more air underline an ethereal lift of cooling chamomile and white flowers. The palate unfolds like cashmere, tender and weighty, yet not bearing down. Everything here is united. Rich yeast is merely creamy and lemony. All of this is slenderness, absolute calmness and vivid length. The 2022 is a different kind of Riesling that needs time and will reward it. (Bone-dry)

Min vinmager

Schloss Johannisberg

Schloss Johannisberg, en verdenskendt og eftertragtet autoritet inden for Riesling. Slottet, der er omgivet af vinstokke, er et af flagskibene i Rheingau-regionen og en af de smukkeste vingårde i verden. Schloss Johannisberg var den første vingård, der dyrkede 100 procent Riesling på sine vinmarker,...

Riesling Goldlack 2022