Nikolaihof: Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026) 2014

Nikolaihof: Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026) 2014

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Grüner Veltliner 100%
hvid, tør
Modnet
12,5% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2026–2044
fyldig og rund
mineralsk
ukonventionel
Lobenberg: 95/100
Suckling: 92/100
Galloni: 93/100
Parker: 92/100
Østrig, Wachau
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026) 2014

95
/100

Denne vin lagrede i 1,5 år i store, gamle træfade, inden den blev tappet. Det er netop det, der giver den den ekstreme holdbarhed, som den nu så imponerende viser som en 2014 Archive Release – der netop er blevet frigivet i 2026. Vinstokkene vokser på ler, løss og paragneis. Duften siger straks »Grüner Veltliner«, blot i sin vidunderligt modnede form. Hvid peber, lidt mørt kernefrugt fra gamle frugtplantager, en let røget duft, deraf grøn te og nu også de første fine strejf af bivoks. På ganen oplever man en ro, der næsten ikke kan beskrives i aromaer. Vinen udstråler en rolig selvtillid. Her glider vinen over ganen uden overhovedet at virke fed. Den virker fuldt udvokset og er helt i ro med sig selv. De tidligere primære aromaer har givet plads til dybe, afdæmpede noter: moden gul pære, lidt syltet kvæde og kandiseret lime. Den drager særlig fordel af at variere temperaturen og kan gerne drikkes lidt varmere, f.eks. ved 12 til 14 grader Celsius. Derefter kommer den peberagtige og tobaksagtige note endnu bedre til sin ret og giver vinen en dejlig lang eftersmag.

92
/100

Suckling om: Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026)

After one and half years in oak and bottling with minimal sulfur, this is a fairly oxidative wine, but it has great texture and surprising richness given the moderate 12.5% alcohol. The cloves and cinnamon notes are very striking. Drink or hold.

93
/100

Galloni om: Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026)

Since the Saahses have elected to give future installments of this bottling additional time in cask, I won't review the corresponding 2015 until my next report. But as I wrote in reviewing this 2014 last time out: "[lt] may need more time to pull itself together, and I'll try to make a point of re-tasting it in the coming year." It's now exhibiting so much complex allure in comparison with its showing at the time of release (mid-2016) that an updated review is called for. The basic elements remain the same: green bean, artichoke, apple and beet, with fresh lime and black pepper lending brightness and invigoration. But the depth of umami-rich and saline savor has been enhanced by caramelized turnip, fresh spinach, and iodine-tinged shrimp shell reduction, while the mouthwatering finish now features a striking sense of transparency to nuances including shimmering stony impingements of a sort one more usually experiences from a Riesling. I'm now also much more confident of this bottling's aging potential.

92
/100

Parker om: Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026)

The golden-yellow colored 2014 Ried Im Weingebirge Grüner Veltliner Smaragd opens with a matured yet still fresh and vibrantly mineral bouquet with smoky/flinty nuances of crushed black rocks. Dense and intense as well as complex and saline on the palate, this is a quite powerful and adequately tannic Veltliner with an intense and powerful yet not extraordinarily long finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Archive Release 2024. Tasted in January 2025.

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Nikolaihof

Nikolaihof er måske nok den ældste vingård i Østrig - men i Wachau er den førende i stil, den mest eftertragtede generation, så at sige. Den 22 hektar store Nikolaihof er speciel og unik i enhver forstand af ordet. [...]

Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge (Archive Release 2026) 2014