Henschke Cellars: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley 2021

Henschke Cellars: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley 2021

Shiraz 100%
rød, tør
14,5% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2026–2050
velsmagende & krydret
struktureret
voluminøs og kraftfuld
Lobenberg: 98+/100
Parker: 97/100
Suckling: 96/100
Wine Enthusiast: 98/100
Galloni: 97/100
Decanter: 97/100
Winepilot: 97
Australien, Barossa-dalen
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley 2021

98+
/100

Den enkelte vinmark »Mount Edelstone« ligger i det køligere Eden Valley i 400 meters højde og blev allerede i 1912 beplantet med Shiraz-vinstokke, der vender mod øst. De er således vendt mod den »mildere« morgensol. Jorden består af dyb, rødbrun ler og lerjord og stammer fra kambrisk skifer. Cyril Henschke tappede vinen separat for første gang i 1952. Den 18 måneder lange modning foregår til over 90 procent i brugte 300-liters hogsheads af fransk og til en femtedel amerikansk eg. Dyb, strålende violet farve. Wow, det er koncentreret, nuanceret krydderi i vinform! Sort og hvid peber, men også eksotiske pebervarianter, merian, eukalyptus, allspice, nelliker, oliventapenade, læder, rustent jern, blod, kraftig kødbouillon og duftende, jordagtige aromaer fra den tyske Herbswald stiger op fra glasset. Jo oftere jeg dufter til denne vin, jo mere vild bliver rejsen! Disse gamle vinstokke indgyder Mount Edelstone en næsten uudgrundelig mystik. Under al denne krydrethed træder frugtige noter af crème de cassis, modne brombær, hibiskus og blommekompot med kanel og lidt vanilje frem – hmmm, en »Linzer Torte« som grundlag for denne overdådige krydrethed? »Why not!« Fænomenal og helt anderledes end forventet. I munden er frugten koncentreret, sprød, præcis og fyldt med spænding takket være den salte mineralitet. En forbløffende frisk vin – druerne er helt sikkert høstet ved perfekt modenhed og i fantastisk balance. Modne, saftige blåbær og vilde blommer kommer til udtryk i ganen. I den saftige eftersmag prikker det faktisk på tungen, som om der var Szechuan-peber og røget kød i vinen – en fornemmelse, der forstærkes af de mange fint slebne, modne tanniner. Derefter knistrer 100 % chokolade og lakrids på tungen. Mount Edelstone har siden sin første årgang i 1952 uden tvivl været blandt verdens mest legendariske enkeltmarker. Denne vinmark var for øvrigt den første enkeltmark fra Henschke, der blev aftappet separat, og den var endda inspirationen for den visionære Cyril Henschke til også at aftappe Hill of Grace som en enkeltmark. En sand vinlegende og et eventyr for ganen!

97
/100

Parker om: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley

The 2021 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz was planted in 1912 and was 16 hectares from own-rooted, pre-phylloxera James Busby vine stock. The first Mount Edelstone wine was produced in 1952, from 40-year-old vines. The success of the Mount Edelstone was the inspiration for the Hill of Grace single-vineyard wine to be produced from the 1958 vintage. The Mount Edelstone vineyard is planted at 400 meters in elevation and has an easterly aspect trellised to the Scott Henry system, capturing the morning sun and avoiding the hot afternoon sun. The wine is velvety and layered with raw cocoa tannins, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, raspberry and blood plum. This has all the concentration and intensity that we know and love of Mount Edelstone; it speaks clearly to Eden Valley as a place, with notes of sage, bay, crushed rocks and a cool minerality that drives it through the long finish. This is a superb wine. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

96
/100

Suckling om: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley

Spice- and earth-driven aromas of blood plums, cured meat, pepper, dried herbs and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with silky tannins and a creamy mouthfeel, giving notes of wild blackberries, black olive tapenade, mocha and licorice. Savory and powerful, with an underlying freshness that will age nicely for decades to come. Made from vines planted in 1912. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

98
/100

Wine Enthusiast om: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley

At 113 years old, the Mount Edelstone vineyard is nothing short of a treasure. This vintage is still quite primary—set for the long haul—with rich (but fresh) blackberry and plum at the fore. There's a hint of dark chocolate and sage here, a whisper of violets, tomatoes and beet root there. A satiny gloss to the palate coats the tongue with all the goodness of the nose, the fine, savory tannins slowly rising to prominence. A lovely, oh-so-Henschke release that will bring pleasure now, but will age beautifully for a long as you've the patience to wait.

97
/100

Galloni om: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley

The 2021 Shiraz Mount Edelstone is a stunner, offering a tremendous mix of refinement and understated power. It is quite beautiful, although tightly bound right now, delivering a compact core of spice, bay leaf, and violets, while oak adds well-judged support. There is a balletic feel to the palate as ethereal flavors of measured ripeness are backed by firm acidity and tight tannins. This release is marked by delicious energy and overall lightness of touch—an exceptional vintage for this label.

97
/100

Decanter om: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley

Impressive, expressive and intense, this is a brilliant vintage of what is Australia's longest consecutively produced single-site wine (since 1952), from a vineyard planted in 1912. The heady aroma leaps from the glass: captivating lifted brambles, dark plums, sagebrush, bay leaf and earthy spices, which continue on the opulent palate, showing the the depth and character of those old-vines. Supporting the impressive fruit richness are dense, mocha-like velvety tannins, musky oak notes, and a cool, slatey acidity that gives freshness alongside a tingling, lingering pepperiness. It's already disturbingly delicious, but needs two decades at least to show what it's truly capable of.

Smagsnotat
97

Winepilot om: Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley

Sourced from a 109-year-old single vineyard which brings its own form of Australian old vine class to the glass. It is both immediately friendly while also offering a sense of something deeper and more serious. I love that about Edelstone: whenever you taste it, young or old, it’s a friend. Ripe, sweet black and red fruits light up the scent accompanied by lifted woody spices, a hint of bitter chocolate, sage and earth. Opens up beautifully on the palate, in part, no doubt, to the quality of the vintage and in part to the quality of the fruit. Tannins are laid out fine and evenly integrated with a mix of 20% American and 80% French oak with just a light new oak (9%) component that contributes an extra degree of woody spiciness, especially on the finish. The ’21 holds a little more in reserve than in previous vintages, it’s tighter, no less friendly but boasts significant depth yet to be revealed.

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Henschke

Familien Henschke ejer Australiens mest berømte enkeltmarker. Hvad er hemmeligheden bag de nuancerede, elegante vine? Biodynamisk vinavl kombineret med en konsekvent »hands-off«-filosofi i vinkælderen. Henschke har gennem seks generationer opbygget et stort ry i den australske vinverden, for...

Mount Edelstone Vineyard Eden Valley 2021