- Start
- Spanien
- Aragonien
- Calatayud
- El Escoces Volante
- Provechon El Maton 2021
El Escoces Volante: Provechon El Maton 2021
100
- Bobal
- rød, tør
- 13,5% Vol.
- Drikkemoden: 2025–2045
- velsmagende & krydret
- voluminøs og kraftfuld
- saftig
- Lobenberg: 97/100
- Decanter: 95/20
- Parker: 94/100
- Suckling: 94/100
- Spanien, Aragon, Calatayud
- Allergener: Sulfitter,
Tapperi / Importør: El Escoces Volante, Barrio la Rosa Bajo 16, 50300 Zaragoza (Calatayud), SPANIEN
Heiner Lobenberg om:
Provechon El Maton 2021
/100
Ren varietal, 80 år gammel Bobal fra en enkelt vinmark, kaldet Provechon her i regionen. Det er meget sjældent at finde så gammel Bobal i det blandede sortiment. Lille udbytte og i sidste ende små mængder, økologisk dyrket i stor højde. Håndhøstet og med hele klaser, ikke afstilket og kun omhyggeligt knust, gæret i et betonæg og 500 liters tonneau, modnet i brugte barriques. Bobal fra højtliggende vinmarker som Manchuelo eller Calatayud kan være utrolig blomsteragtig og krydret med en næsten støvet mundfølelse, hvid peber og grafit. Stor friskhed, saftig, hedonistisk, men uden nogen form for syre. Den store kunst at opnå gode resultater (se også Ponce i Manchuelo) fra Bobal er den omhyggelige, skånsomme ekstraktion uden at knuse de bitre frø. Uventet lys i farven. Friske blomster og masser af tørrede blomster, appelsinskal, kalksten, masser af charme, næsten som en delikat Chateauneuf. I smagen tørrede blåbærskaller, lækre surkirsebær, violer, enorme mængder sten og mineralitet, plus den velsmagende saftighed, der er antydet, men poppet med rig mineralitet. Lidt peberagtig krydring. En fin, hedoinistisk one-off, umiskendelig. Chic og meget individuel, lækker og alligevel meget sofistikeret. En ægte tilføjelse til vores portefølje og så meget anderledes, meget finere, end de store power bobals fra Ponce i Manchuelo. Stilen minder lidt om Frontonios store Grenache. 97/100
Årsrapporten
Den yderst aromatiske, enestående årgang 2021 begejstrer i Spanien med en friskhed, der er uden sidestykke. Efter sommerens tørkestress bragte et gyldent, køligt efterår det sensationelle vendepunkt. De tykskallede druer leverer langtidsholdbare vine fulde af karakter, modne tanniner og livlig syre.
/20
Decanter om: Provechon El Maton
Only 1,800 bottles were produced from this 0.41ha parcel of Provechón (Bobal) planted in 1938 in Aniñon, most likely the oldest remaining vineyard of the variety in Aragón. It is a surprisingly floral and aromatic wine with mountain herbs and bright red berries. Whole-berry fermented, then aged in flextank egg and used 500L oak for 13 months, it is fruit-forward and elegant despite its intensity. Marked acidity brings freshness and elegance to a wine that is both satisfying and highly accomplished.
/100
Parker om: Provechon El Maton
Bobal is known as Provechón in the Calatayud zone, so the new red 2021 Provechón Viñas Viejas Parcela El Matón was produced with old-vine Bobal from a plot known as El Matón that was planted in 1938. The trick for Bobal is not to extract much; they destem but do not crush the grapes, and it fermented in Flextank and one neutral 500-liter barrel. It opens up nicely in the glass, giving elegant floral aromas, expressive, a little à la Cariñena, herbal too, showy and tasty. It's medium to full-bodied, juicy, clean and tasty, quite domesticated and quite elegant for a variety famous for being rustic. It does have tannins, but they are quite polished. It has 13.45% alcohol and keeps very good acidity and freshness parameters. 1,800 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2023. Impressive debut. 94/100
/100
Suckling om: Provechon El Maton
Aromas of black and blue fruits with notes of savory herbs, light spices and crushed stones. Medium-bodied, with a vibrant, mineral approach on the palate, juicy acidity and chalky texture to its tannins. Savory, refreshing, and really tense. Crunchy but with lots of firmness and a good backbone of tannins. Drink or hold. 94/100
Weingut om: Provechon El Maton
Floral aromas with hints of mountain herbs, medium to full bodied, elegant with fine tannins, fresh acidity and a long finish. 2021 in most parts of Calatayud moved back to a more traditional cycle with vine phenology returning to a recognisable rhythm after the precocious 2020. Having said that, Philomena left its mark in much of continental Aragon when temperatures plunged to almost 20 below zero the few days following the record breaking snow fall of the 8th to 10th of January. Despite winter dormancy many exposed vineyards suffered vascular damage. As a result bud burst was very irregular and staggered with some 4 to 6 weeks for full bud-burst in many vineyards. In some cases whole vine arms were lost and pruning decisions for 2022 will have to redirect vigour and growth. Disease pressure was thankfully lower than 2020 during flowering and set , however a cold snap at the end of fruit set led to some coulure and millerandage in higher and later ripening parcels. Summer was generally dry and mild in the most part with a nice slow gradual ripening. Immediately in the run up to harvest we encountered some early September storms which started to worry growers carrying too much crop. Thankfully, Botrytis did not rear its head in our vineyards due to good grape positioning, sensible yields and the use of new organic techniques such as spraying Bacillus amyloliquefaciens to outcompete any rot. The wines typically have more malic acid this year due to the cooler ripening period and the wines are crunchy and appealing. We started picking Garnacha before Macabeo ( Macabeo ripened later this year) and we started harvest on the 13th of September and finished on 13th of October in our own vineyards. The 2021 wines remind me of some of the fresher harvests here such as 2004, 2008, 2013 and 2018 in terms of quality. Fermentation took place in two flextank eggs using only whole berries without crushing to avoid any over-extraction of tannins from skins or seeds. Hand plunged until dry then pressed to age in one egg and one 500 litre, used barrel for 13 months on fine lees before racking and bottling. The Provechón variety (also known as Bobal) has always formed part of the viticulture in Calatayud and it was normally interplanted with Garnacha in post phylloxera plantings. El Matón is possibly the oldest remaining parcel in Aragon as a single vineyard of Provechon.
El Escoces Volante
El Escoces Volante er et familieforetagende, der drives af Norrel Robertson og hans kone Sharon. Selve vingården ligger direkte i Calatayud, og vinmarkerne ligger i området omkring kommunerne Villarroya de la Sierra, Cervera de la Cañada og Torralba på mellem 700 og 950 meter over havets overflade.