El Escoces Volante: Mataquemada 2021

: Garnacha 80%, Garnacha Blanca 10%, Bobal 10%

: rød, tør; 14,0% Vol.; Drikkemoden: 2026–2048

: voluminøs og kraftfuld; velsmagende & krydret

: Lobenberg: 98+/100; Tim Atkin: 98/100; Parker: 96/100; Suckling: 96/100

: Spanien, Aragon, Calatayud

: Allergener: Sulfitter,

Tapperi / Importør: El Escoces Volante, Barrio la Rosa Bajo 16, 50300 Zaragoza (Calatayud), SPANIEN

Dyrket i 1000 meters højde, en lille parcel med buskvin fra 1970 med Grenache og lidt Bobal sammen med hvid Grenache, blandet sæt. "Den flyvende skotte" (Escoces Volante) Norrel Robertson, der er MW-uddannet ligesom sin nabo Fernando Mora fra Frontonio, betragter denne vin, som er lavet af 50 % hele klaser, som sit flagskib. Og det med rette! Mindre end 1 hektar, der er kun 1200 flasker. Lys rød farve. Jeg har aldrig i mit liv fået en vin med så stærk en smag af timian i glasset. Tørrede rosenblade og lyse engblomster, geniale Provence-urter, garrigues, appelsinskal. Oregano og rosmarin tilføjes, efterfulgt af vilde hindbær og fine røde kirsebær. Sikke en duftoplevelse. Pebret i munden, alle nuancer fra masser af hvid peber til allehånde og chili, salt hindbær på tørrede blomster. Brutalt æterisk i alle fibre og krydret og intenst mineralsk, men altid ultrafin i sit eksotiske udtryk. Hvordan kan en vin være så legende og alligevel beruse kenderen med sin dramatiske, mineralske, salte og krydrede multikompleksitet. Koncentreret, krydret, frugtagtig finesse for kendere. Fantastisk! 98+/100

Den yderst aromatiske, enestående årgang 2021 begejstrer i Spanien med en friskhed, der er uden sidestykke. Efter sommerens tørkestress bragte et gyldent, køligt efterår det sensationelle vendepunkt. De tykskallede druer leverer langtidsholdbare vine fulde af karakter, modne tanniner og livlig syre.

Til årsrapporten

Tim Atkin om: Mataquemada

The village of Torrijo de la Cañada, close to the province of Soria, used to produce 3 million kilos of grapes but only four Garnacha vineyards now remain. Planted in 1970 at 950m on slate, this parcel is Garnacha Tinta co-planted with 10% Provechón (Bobal) and Garnacha Blanca. Norrel Robertson MW ferments with 40% whole bunch and the wine spends around 11 months in two flex tank eggs. With aromas of mountain herbs, balsamic notes and petrichor, the wine is elegant and direct with a red cherry core. A wonderfully unique and profound wine that expresses the rugged freshness of the wilds of Calatayud. 98/100

Parker om: Mataquemada

The nose of the 2021 Mataquemada is an explosion of thyme and other aromatic herbs and spices, developing acute notes of nutmeg, Jamaica pepper and other exotic spices. The wine portrays the palest ruby color from all the wines I tasted from El Escocés Volante. This is the wildest wine in the portfolio, from the highest-altitude vineyards they work with, at 980 meters in altitude; it's from 0.95 hectares in a plot in the village of Torrijos de la Cañada planted with a field blend of Garnacha with some 10% other varieties (Provechón/Bobal, Garnacha Blanca...). It fermented with 40% full clusters, as it's a longer-cycle vineyard and there's more lignification of the stems here; the higher percentage of stems gives a special sapid twist in the palate. It's showy, expressive, nuanced, floral, elegant, fresh and ethereal but with lots of energy and light, a wine of power and finesse and lots of aromatic complexity. Superb. The vineyard is so isolated that by the time they harvest the grapes, the animals have eaten their share, so they only produced 1,200 bottles. It was bottled in March 2023. 96/100

Suckling om: Mataquemada

This is so characterful with a lot of crushed berries, spices, smoked herbs, anisette, ground peppercorns, cured meat, iodine and sea shells. Medium- to full-bodied. So much tension and vibrancy to the fruit. Complex and long. Beautiful and delicious. 85% garnacha blended with other grapes. 40% whole bunch. Planted in 1970. 0.95 hectares. Drink or hold. 96/100

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