Zind Humbrecht: Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru 2022

Zind Humbrecht: Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru 2022 1,5 l

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Riesling 100%
hvid, tør
13,0% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2028–2062
mineralsk
fyldig og rund
Lobenberg: 100/100
Parker: 99/100
Suckling: 98/100
Galloni: 97/100
Jancis Robinson: 18,5/20
Frankrig, Alsace
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru 2022

100
/100

Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru, et navn som torden. Det er, hvad Zind Humbrecht står for! Vulkansk jord i sydlig eksponering. En meget sublim, citrusekspressiv næse, meget lige, meget fin, meget stenet efter alsaciske standarder, næsten svævende let. Også antydninger af litchi, grøn abrikos, limesaft, bjergmynte, aldrig for sprudlende med Humbrecht, snarere samlet og på trods af sin ekstremt stenede fremtoning altid lækker at dykke ned i. Ligner en Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg fra Wachau, men med endnu mere gennemtrængende mineralitet. Ultrafin, næsten delikat i smagen, aromatisk ret citrusagtig, kvæde, lime, helt uden tyngde, enormt poleret, men med en rap syre. Stor længde og en intenst kridtholdig finish. Igen langt fra barok, men stadig med en masse kraft og tryk, men meget sublimt, ikke massivt. Vidunderligt saftig, dette er en enormt stor mundfølelse, mild og alligevel meget anspændt og enormt mineralsk, næsten vibrerende! 2022 har en gigantisk struktur, er banebrydende i sine tanniner og sin mineralitet. Vinen står som en klippe i munden. En af verdens store rieslinger - næsten hvert år. Humbrechts konsistens gennem de sidste par årtier er betagende.

99
/100

Parker om: Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru

The late-budding and rather late-ripening Clos Saint-Urbain, in the very south of Alsace, meets the very warm and solar 2022 vintage in this wine. What a thrilling setting this is, the more so since August and September brought rather cooler conditions to this cooler but, due to its dark soils and stony terraces in summer, nevertheless warm terroir of the Rangen. Indeed, the pH level was rather low in 2022 (at 3.1) and caused a dry and tense Riesling that doesn't at all show the characteristics of the Rieslings around Turckheim or elsewhere in Alsace. The 2022 Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann Riesling opens very clear, pure, saline/iodine-inflected and stony on the flinty or smoky nose that represents the volcanic terroir of the clos perfectly or, as Olivier Humbrecht puts it, 'Like a volcano fart.' Powerful, rich and saline on the palate, this is a dense, highly complex and energetic Saint-Urbain that somehow combines the purity of Dönnhoff's Hermannshöhle with the concentration, power and mineral complexity of the magnesium-rich Rangen. The finish is very intense, dense and aromatic as well as salivating, with a great mix of tannins, saline acidity and perfectly ripe (apricot) fruit. Pressed slowly over 14 hours, this is one of the, if not THE, finest Rangen I have tasted from Zind-Humbrecht. (Loyal readers know that I had them all a year ago.) The 2022 comes in with 12.8% alcohol and is a wine to keep for many years.

98
/100

Suckling om: Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru

All the yellow and fresh tropical fruit of the world is packed into this exceptionally complex and mind-blowingly intense wine that pushes the envelope of minerality all the way, and then some. If that isn’t your thing, then get off the bus, but for friends of very focused, stony wines this is a staggering experience. The smoky, salty and spicy finish is really extraordinary. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

97
/100

Galloni om: Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru

The 2022 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru was harvested among the last Rieslings but had one of the lowest alcohols, with 12.8 %. A lovely sharp, green aromatic flavor, almost of watercress intensity, fresh, green and vigorous without being unripe, sets an initial aromatic highlight. The famed smokiness arrives on the second sniff, followed by gloriously aromatic tangerine. The palate is exquisitely precise, stony, taut and naked, but oh so nuanced with immense citrus brightness. This is a marvel glimmering with zestiness, citrus and such stony directness. (Bone-Dry) 97/100

18,5
/20

Jancis Robinson om: Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru

Tasted blind. Yeasty, nutty, and so much acidity – this just keeps juicing up with more and more flavour, from tart white cherry to peach to hints of red cherry. It’s very Riesling but with the sunny warmth of Alsace and the ruddy cast of warm volcanic soil; it has the variety’s translucence but with intense concentration, too. It’s succulent and huge, built for the ages.

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Zind Humbrecht

Humbrecht-familiens vinproduktionstradition kan spores tilbage til tiden omkring Trediveårskrigen (1620). Her, i det dybe Alsace, forfiner sønnen sin fars håndværk, og barnebarnet perfektionerer sin søns bestræbelser. Huset Zind-Humbrecht, som det ser ud i dag, blev skabt i 1959 ved en sammenlægning...

Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru 2022