Van Zellers: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

Van Zellers Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

Vinklub

Begrænset

3 Flasker

Til vinbonden

100
100

Denne kasse indeholder 1 flaske hver af Van Zellers Crafted by Liberty 1860 Very Old Tawny (alc. 20,0% vol., restsyreindhold 2,07 g/l, restsukker 136,0 g/l), Crafted by Family 1870 Very Old Tawny (alc. 20,0% vol., restsyreindhold 2,72 g/l, restsukker 180,0 g/l) og Crafted by Poetry 1888 Very Old Tawny (alc. 19,5% vol., restsyreindhold 2,4 g/l), restsyreindhold 2,72 g/l, restsukker 180,0 g/l) og Crafted by Poetry 1888 Very Old Tawny (alc. 19,5% vol., restsyreindhold 2,4 g/l, restsukker 158,0 g/l) samt en mundblæst krystalkaraffel.

lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

100
/100

En unik rejse ind i fortiden. For at forstå denne kollektion er man nødt til at rejse tilbage i tiden. Cristiano Van Zeller, den nuværende vinmager, er 14. generation på vingården, som blev grundlagt i 1620. En portvinsekspert i ordets bedste betydning. Da Cristiano stødte på tre særligt gamle fade, vidste han med det samme, at de var særlige mesterværker. Van Zellers & Co XIX The Rare Port Collection består af tre forskellige Colheita-portvine (vintage tawnies), flydende historie. Med andre ord tawny portvine, som stadig lå på deres fade indtil for nylig. De tre flasker kommer fra tre forskellige årgange. Den første er fra 1860 og er dedikeret til frihed, da Abraham Lincoln blev valgt til præsident i USA det år. Den anden er fra 1870 og er dedikeret til familien. I dette år blev to grene af Van Zellers-familien forenet gennem ægteskab. Den tredje og sidste portvin i denne samling er fra 1888, den yngste - hvis man kan tale om det i denne sammenhæng. Den er dedikeret til poesi. Fernando Pessoa, en af de mest indflydelsesrige portugisiske digtere, blev født i dette år. Selve æsken er skræddersyet i sort pianolak. Flaskerne er mundblæste, og i stedet for en etiket er de udstyret med en lille halskæde fra den portugisiske producent af kronjuveler. Samleræsken fuldendes med en håndlavet krystalkaraffel. Det højeste niveau af håndværk i hvert trin og hver detalje! Denne kollektion er begrænset til kun 75 æsker! *** Om Crafted by Liberty: Vintage 1860, en vidunderlig forførende mahognifarve i glasset. Næsen er fabelagtig frisk. Du bliver ikke kun indfanget af kandiserede appelsiner, men også af frisk blodappelsinskal. Utroligt livlig. Det er fantastisk! Kompleksiteten og vitaliteten er berusende fra det allerførste pust! Lidt melasse, mokka og ren kakao. Dertil kommer frisk cedertræ og sorte nødder. I munden løber en ufattelig syrlighed for sin alder gennem munden! Det ville allerede være imponerende for en portvin fra slutningen af det 20. århundrede, men hvis portvinen og smagenes modenhed er yderligere 100 år ældre, er det endnu mere imponerende! Endnu en gang friskhed fra blodappelsiner og friskristet arabica. Dette samspil mellem aromatisk modenhed, kompleksitet og drikkeglæde er fabelagtigt! Muskatnød, grøn vanilje og lidt allehånde. En oplevelse, der kun kan bringe dig i knæ! *** om Crafted by Family: The Family stammer fra 1870 og har en ret mørk farve, der næsten minder om en gammel balsamicoeddike. Tørrede abrikoser og melasse i næsen. Der er også lidt tamarindpasta med den mørke syre. Ikke så skarp som Liberty, men meget mere afslappet. Det er imponerende, hvor forskellige de to er. Family er mørkere i smagen, men livligheden er der fuldt ud! Vaniljesmagen er meget mere behersket og mørkere her, især i sammenligning med Liberty. Mere som tahitiansk vanilje end de friske grønne bælge. I munden er der ristet kaffe og brændt cedertræ. Utroligt ristet. En delikat friskhed løfter det hele til et højere niveau. Med brændte appelsiner og kandiseret grapefrugt. Udfordrende, kompleks og imponerende! *** to Crafted by Poetry: Den yngste portvin af de tre, fra 1888. Næsen er helt delikat, den mest delikate af de tre. Lidt kardemomme, nelliker, kakao og appelsiner. Med imponerende livskraft. Samspillet mellem de lyse krydderier og appelsinerne er berusende. Poesien befinder sig i midten af de tre portvine i hierarkiet af smagens lysstyrke. Der er også en delikat citrussmag, som minder om gurkemeje, meget subtil og ikke overvældende. Let kaffe og grapefrugt i munden. Så igen samspillet mellem krydderi og citrus. Livlig og alligevel fuld af smag, fuld af kraft! Kandiseret mandarin og læder. Vidunderligt livlig. *** Alle tre portvine udfolder en imponerende variation af smage og facetter. Hver enkelt er en unik oplevelse i sig selv, for på trods af deres fælles kompleksitet kunne de næppe være mere forskellige i karakter. Den betagende friskhed, der gennemsyrer alle tre portvine - livlig, fængslende og næsten berusende. Denne ekstraordinære friskhed giver dem en strålende elegance og løfter dem op på et uovertruffent niveau.

97–99
/100

Suckling om: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: Deep mahogany with a deep amber rim. Superb complexity, with dates, prunes, incense ash, caramel, dried mushrooms and cedar. Incredible balance and harmony, with bright acidity and a sweetness and smoothness you’ll crave. Lingers for minutes. A unique tawny from 1860. The more elegant, nuanced expression of the trio of XIX release. Super delicious now. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: Deep mahogany with tons of pecans, cigar ash, prunes and dark chocolate. Unctuous, broad, super-concentrated, complex and long. Pure syrup-like elixir with many superlatives. Very old, rare tawny from 1870. Just a bit more volatile compared to the 1888 “Poetry,” but this is already stunning. Drink now or hold. *** zu Crafted by Poetry 1888: Black mahogany color. Super intense and concentrated, with lots of cedar, sandalwood,prunes, tar, molasses, black walnuts, truffles and Mexican cocoa. Full and unctuous but extremely bright and harmonious. Lots of acidity balances the huge, almost painful, superlative concentration. A pure, seductive elixir that lasts for minutes. A unique taste of history from 1888. A great comparison with “Liberty,” which is their 1860 offering. Drink or hold.

97
/20

Decanter om: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: It reveals fine filigree scents and flavours of esteva, black pepper, lavender and cardamom, with cedar, pine needle, safron and liquorice emerging in the mouth.

96–98
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Parker om: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: The palest of the three very old Ports is the NV Crafted by Liberty, allegedly from the 1860 vintage. It was fortified to 20% alcohol and has a pH of 3.72, 2.07 grams of volatile acidity and 132 grams of sugar. This is the least sweet of the three and also the one with less volatility, despite being the oldest. Compared with the others, this is the most elegant, fragile and less concentrated of the pack, with more cinnamon and less coconut, lighter and less sweet, the sweetness is compensated by fine tannins that leave a dry sensation. With time in the glass, it turns even more elegant and floral, nuanced and refined. This is the most fragile one and should be consumed earlier. The bottles will keep open, but this one will fade before the other two of the series. Only 75 bottles produced. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: The darkest and possibly most extreme of these 19th-century Ports is the NV Crafted by Family, named like that because its vintage, 1870, is a relevant year for the Van Zeller family. It has 20% alcohol and very high volatility (2.71 grams!), acidity (11.14 grams!) and sugar, some 176 grams, which are higher parameters than any of the other two wines offered in the lot. It's big, concentrated and very intense. It has notes of carob beans, dark chocolate and a salty, iodine touch, hints of rusty iron and low tide, spicy, with notes of aromatic herbs and hints of very old rancio wine. With time, it developed more notes of varnished wood, ebony and mahogany and became very nutty. This is very powerful, concentrated by evaporation and pungent, full-bodied and long, developing notes of tar and a darker profile in general. It's an XXL very old Port with a fiery finish. *** zu Crafted by Poetry 1888: The youngest of the three very old Ports is the NV Crafted by Poetry, from the birth year of one of the greatest Portuguese poets, Fernando Pessoa, the 1888 vintage. Like the other three very old Ports, it was fortified to 20% alcohol, with a pH of 3.70, 2.38 grams of volatile acidity (a total of 10.04 grams of acidity) and 156 grams of sugar. It's quite dark, with a mahogany color and an amber ring, with aromas of very old and concentrated wine, coconut, spices, noble woods, dark chocolate and a touch of iodine, somehow reminiscent of a lighter version of the Moscatel Toneles Sherry from Valdespino. It has a dense and oily palate, with pungent flavors lifted by the volatility, with the concentrated acidity of an old Madeira and not that sweet. It's powerful and pungent and developed a note of brown sugar and incense, a little ashy, becoming perfumed and intoxicating, balanced in its large personality. This became more refined with time in the glass. As for the rest, there were only 75 bottles produced.

19–20
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Jancis Robinson om: Sammlerbox: XIX The Rare Port Collection 1860 I 1870 I 1888 Very Old Tawny

zu Crafted by Liberty 1860: Tasted from a 5-cl sample bottle. This is from 1860 (the year Abraham Lincoln was elected President, hence Liberty) but cannot be dated on the label because it was not registered as a dated wine in 1933, when this had to be done. One of three ports bought from the same farmer that Christiano Van Zeller has been following for some years. It was taken out of wood and put into stainless steel about 30 years ago. RS 136 g/l, VA 2.07 g/l, pH 3.64. This is the lightest in colour of these three 19th-century tawnies, a sort of browny ochre colour with a bit of green. Even though it is sweet, it smells somehow savoury thanks to the nutty and polished-wood aromas alongside sweeter notes of raisins and dried figs. There's also hints of dried flowers, mostly lavender, caramelised bitter orange. With time, a suggestion of curry spice. But even while trying to tease out all these complex, intervowen impressions, the overriding one is elegance, refinement and remarkable freshness. Utterly mouth-watering on the finish. *** zu Crafted by Family 1870: Tasted from a 5-cl sample bottle. This is from 1870 (the year in which two branches of the Van Zeller family got married, hence Family) but cannot be dated on the label because it was not registered as a dated wine in 1933, when this had to be done. One of three ports bought from the same farmer that Christiano Van Zeller has been following for some years. It was taken out of wood and put into stainless steel about 30 years ago. RS 180 g/l, VA 2.72 g/l, pH 3.58. Considerably darker than the Liberty (1860), more fruity and open and more sweetly raisined. Dark, bitter-sweet toffee, burnt apricot flavours. It's more viscous too and incredibly concentrated, with a long, sweet finish, lifted by the VA. Of these three very old tawnies, this is the exhibitionist. More in your face, more sweet/sour but still addictively delicious and, miraculously, balanced even if I feel the alcohol a little more on the finish. *** zu Crafted by Poetry: Tasted from a 5-cl sample bottle. This is from 1888 (the year in which the celebrated Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was born, hence Poetry) but cannot be dated on the label because it was not registered as a dated wine in 1933, when this had to be done. One of three ports bought from the same farmer that Christiano Van Zeller has been following for some years. It was taken out of wood and put into stainless steel about 30 years ago. RS 158 g/l, VA 2.4 g/l, pH 3.56. Greeny brown with some ochre at the rim. Striking note of bitter orange at first, then opening to a complex range of aromas and flavours such as mocha, bitter molasses, dried orange peel, raisins, figs and even shoe polish. But floral, too. So incredibly concentrated that it is almost, but not quite, over the top. The very long and mouth-watering finish with a touch of saltiness, keeps all that intensity in bounds.

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Van Zellers

Med en historie, der går helt tilbage til 1620, er Van Zellers et af de ældste portvinshuse i verden. Det er stadig en familievirksomhed i dag, nu drevet af den 14. og 15. generation af Douro-ikonet Cristiano og hans datter Francisca Van Zeller.