Clemens Busch: Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs 2022

Clemens Busch: Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs 2022

ØKOLOGISK

VDP

Riesling 100%
hvid, tør
12,0% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2030–2056
fyldig og rund
mineralsk
Lobenberg: 97–100/100
Suckling: 98/100
Parker: 98/100
Galloni: 96/100
Tyskland, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs 2022

97–100
/100

Raffes er et udvalg af druer fra en højtliggende, stenet parcel i Marienburg. Gamle vinstokke, der ligger mellem Fahrlay og Rothenpfad. Med andre ord på GG Falkenlay-stedet. Raffes er den mest koncentrerede og tætte vin, en turbo-version af Falkenlay. Falkenlay er mere overdådig og tættere på grund af jordbunden, men Raffes er midtpunktet. I sin enorme koncentration har den altid en ubeskrivelig elegance. Meget tæt frugt, indlejret som om den var mejslet i sten af tætvævede tanniner og salt syre. Hvilken delikatesse! Meget koncentreret gul frugt, gul fersken, moden grapefrugt, gul blomme. Efter den stenede, delikate næse havde man ikke forventet denne gulfrugtige charmeoffensiv i munden. Endeløs kraft og drive. Elegant, men alligevel med så meget kraft og hestekræfter under motorhjelmen. En vin til årtier. Monumentet par excellence fra dette hus. Clemens Buschs vine er simpelthen enorme. Hvis du kan vente 20 år eller mere, vil du have en gigantisk Mosel Riesling i dit glas.

Årsrapporten

Den paradoksale ekstreme årgang 2022 fremstår i Tyskland som overraskende elegant, tilgængelig og fin. Uden spor af varmefyldt frodighed charmerer topvinene med moden syrebalance, tydelig terroir-karakter og dansende glans – en ekstremt selektiv, men i toppen historisk stor succes.

98
/100

Suckling om: Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs

Very succulent yet very refined and filigreed, this is a most extraordinary, barely off-dry Mosel riesling with gigantic finesse and breathtaking elegance. Then, just when you thought it was safe to go back into the water, a huge wave of crushed rock minerality lands on you and washes you onto a rocky beach. Limited production. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Bottled after 18 months on the lees (including fermentation). Drink or hold.

98
/100

Parker om: Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs

Busch's 2022 Raffes Pündericher Marienburg is the other long-fermented Riesling of the vintage that was kept on the lees for two years but didn't ferment to fully dry. The vivid yellow colored wine offers an intense, coolish, really flinty and savory bouquet of concentrated yellow seed fruits intermingled with saline notes of crushed rocks. Rich but playful and vital on the palate, this is a full-bodied and complex, mouthwatering and lemon-fresh Raffes that delivers the generosity of old, ungrafted vines that were most likely planted early after World War II. This is a fascinating, perfectly round, refined and elegant Riesling with remarkable finesse and this filigreed yet sustainable structure. Everything is perfectly interwoven here, and lemon bitters populate the aftertaste, demanding for a second sip immediately. 12% stated alcohol plus 12 grams per liter of unfermented sugar. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in March 2026.

96
/100

Galloni om: Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs

The 2022 Riesling Marienburg Raffes Grosse Lage is from a parcel of 80-year-old vines within Falkenlay. The nose is very subtle, with hints of slate, fern and lemon. The palate is smooth, fluid and round while remaining quite contoured. A central vein of saltiness tingles almost as much as its citric brightness. This is mouthwatering, totally concentrated and absolutely clean-cut. (Dry)

Riesling Marienburg Raffes Großes Gewächs 2022