Cesar Marquez Perez: El Val Godello 2023

Cesar Marquez Perez: El Val Godello 2023

Godello 100%
hvid, tør
13,0% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2026–2051
mineralsk
frisk og syrlig
ukonventionel
Lobenberg: 98–100/100
Parker: 97+/100
Galloni: 97/100
Suckling: 96/100
Spanien, Bierzo
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
El Val Godello 2023

98–100
/100

Dette er Cesar Marquez’ flagskibs-Godello. Allerede duften er forbløffende dyb og koncentreret, men ikke koncentreret i betydningen fed, snarere koncentreret om citrusfrugter med en røget undertone, flint og stenet kølighed. Så spændingsfyldt og allerede i duften sprængfyldt med mineralitet. Derefter kommer der også en æterisk, urteagtig kølighed fra citrongræs, citronmelisse og endda salvie. Også lidt surdejsbrød smurt med smør i baggrunden. Ultrafint, men kraftfuldt – alt andet end delikat. Simpelthen bare komplekst, ophøjet og med stadig flere facetter, der kommer frem, når vinen får luft. På ganen fortsætter blandingen af æterisk urtekrydderi og citrusfrugter. Amalfi-citron, bitter grapefrugtskal og pomelo samt kvæde og mirabelle. Man mærker, at det her udelukkende handler om finesse, finpudsning og mineralsk træk. Kompromisløst pikant i denne næsten ingefærskarpe, mineralske kalkagtighed på ganen. Salt, salt og endnu mere salt. Det strømmer virkelig over ganen med en ustoppelig dramatik, og teksturen er vanvittig og imponerende! En helt stor Godello på Grand Cru-niveau, et sted mellem Corton-Charlemagne og Meursault.

Årsrapporten

Den spektakulære årgang 2023 betragtes i Spanien som en milepæl inden for elegance. Vinen er betydeligt mere afbalanceret end 2022 og fremstår som en moden, ualmindelig harmonisk version af 2020. Den charmerer med en stenet reduktion, en betagende renhed og en præcis symmetri af absolut verdensklasse.

97+
/100

Parker om: El Val Godello

The top white 2023 El Val comes from one of the coolest places in Valtuille with vines regrafted to old-clone Godello. It has 13.09% alcohol, a pH of 3.09 and 7.98 grams of acidity, with good ripeness and very good parameters for acidity and freshness in a very complete year that is closer to 2021 than to 2022. It comes from ancient vines on clay, stone and quartzite soils and fermented in one 500-liter barrel, where the wine matured with the lees that were never stirred for 12 months. It has a stunning nose, smoky and flinty, with a lovely reduction and hints of gunpowder and toasted sesame seeds, very Burgundian à la Coche-Dury. It's very tasty, with a salty twist in the finish. Only 570 bottles were produced. It was bottled in October 2024.

97
/100

Galloni om: El Val Godello

The 2023 El Val is 100% Godello from a unique white parcel in Valtuille, surrounded by reds. The aromas are reductive to start, with notes of flint and gunpowder, evolving to green apple, floral hints, praline and herbs. Expressive and compact, the palate is fresh, concentrated, and lifted, with a soft, creamy touch. Utterly delicious.

96
/100

Suckling om: El Val Godello

The nose shows salted lemons with a restrained touch of flint. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with brilliant acidity. It’s linear and precise, with just the right amount of extract. There’s an exceptional sense of balance. Drink now.

Smagsnotat

Weingut om: El Val Godello

After 7 vintages of La Salvación 2015, one of the great illusions of the Project was to achieve a great single vineyard white wine. The first attempt was in 2016, but it was unsuccessful. 2017 was a good vintage for the whites in Bierzo, but the liters did not even allow us to think about it. Three years later, 2020, it was one of the great vintages whites for El Bierzo. The wine showed its quality from the beginning and, at that time, La Salvación began to have its own identity. In 2021, after four years developing separetly a hundred-year-old plot of godello, family property (Castroventosa) and located in the area “El Val”, the wine is bottled separately due to its diferrent character and a unique identity. In 2022 a single barrel is bottled, with grapes from one of the coolest areas of Valtuille, where the best wines come from. The 2021 vintage ended with an autumn whit hardly any rains and higher than normal temperatures. This increase in temperatures continued until January. However, in spring the cold weather delayed sprouting. The rains came in April, but did not last for many days. May began with summer temperatures, contrasting with a cold June, especially at night. July brought 15 days of heatwave, with temperature peaks of more than 40 degrees. A few days before the harvest, the rains arrived and swelled the grape berries, which had been small until then. Vintage is partly reminiscent of 2017 and 2020, when a hot summer (2017) resulted in really round and very easy wines from the first moment (2020) Bearing this in mind, we started the harvest in August, with wineyards at full ripeness. This led us to use less whole grapes than in other vintages and to macerate the wines for less time. The white wines of this vintage have roundness and good acidity. The reds show roundness, elegance and freshness Manual collection; destemming and pressing of the grape. It ferments in a 500 liters French oak barrel without batonage.

Tim Atkin om: El Val Godello

With a hint of struck match reduction and a wonderful sense of expression, this is a mineraland citrussy white which is marked by a real sense of energy and tension. There is a lovelytouch of bitter almond and a certain nutty character reminiscent of toasted macadamiawhich unfurls to a persistent and saline finish. From a very old parcel in Valtuille de Abajo,the wine will soon be classified as Viña Classificada and will be an outstanding examplein the category.

Min vinmager

César Márquez

César Márquez er nevø til den langskæggede Bierzo-vinmager Raul Perez. Den talentfulde unge mand behøver dog ikke at frygte sammenligning, da han selv allerede er et af de spirende talenter på den spændende spanske vinscene. Selv om César studerede ønologi på universitetet i Requena i 2007, lærte...

El Val Godello 2023