Bodega Maranones: Pena Caballera Garnacha 2023

Bodega Maranones: Pena Caballera Garnacha 2023

ØKOLOGISK

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Garnacha 100%
rød, tør
14,0% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2028–2045
frugt-orienteret
velsmagende & krydret
Lobenberg: 98/100
Parker: 97/100
Suckling: 96/100
Spanien, Madrid
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Pena Caballera Garnacha 2023

98
/100

Pena Caballera er en lille vingård i næsten 900 meters højde med meget gammel Grenache i buskform. Højden giver selvfølgelig mere kølighed og friskhed, men området San Martin er generelt meget varmere end det køligere vest nær Comando G. Denne gamle Grenache blev høstet med håndkraft og gæret i meget lang tid med alle rosinerne i beton. Tidligere knust med fødderne. Spontan gæring. Modnet i store træfade. Trods sin højde den mørkeste af Maranones' 3 Grenache-vine og langt den tætteste og kraftigste i smagen. Rappen, pomerans, mørke kirsebær, salt og sten i næsen. Rosinerne er tydelige og tilføjer et genialt krydderi til den bløde, næsten tanninfri røde frugt. Der er tilsat salt. Næsten vægtløs i munden, den uendelige lethed i tilværelsen, understøttet af krydrede rosiner og sød, delikat frugt. Ikke desto mindre et salt, friskt punch i eftersmagen. Koncentreret finesse. Meget, meget elegant vin. -- Bodega Maranones i San Martin (Gredos-regionen, men meget tæt på Madrid), grundlagt i 2008 af den rige industrimand fra Madrid, José Fernando Cornejo, omfatter kun omkring 25 hektar meget små vinmarker (0,5 til maks. 2 hektar hver) i en højde af 650 til 900 meter. Maranones blev grundlagt for at bevise klassen af vinene fra Gredos. Granitjord, sten, granitsand og granitskifer, som er typisk for Gredos. Druesorterne Grenache og hvid Albillo Real. Bourgogne som forbillede. Grundlæggerne af Comando G, især Fernando Garcia, var involveret i købet af gamle vinmarker på mellem 60 og 100 år og i udformningen af vinmarkerne og kælderen. De første vine blev produceret i 2010, og i 2025 var der næsten 60.000 flasker. Grundlæggende er Maranones det mere burgundiske modstykke til Comando G i den varmere San Martin-region. Ekstrem polering og finesse med hyppig brug af hele klaser, spontan gæring og økologisk landbrug. Kun lidt småtræ. Reduktiv stil og ekstremt fine tanniner. Dansende finesse var målet. Grundlæggeren José Cornejo er stadig involveret i en rådgivende funktion på trods af salget til Alma Carraovejas-gruppen i 2021. Efter Fernando Garcias afgang, som stadig er involveret i en rådgivende funktion (total fokus på Comando G), er vinmageren den sympatiske Javi Ossian, mens Pedro Ruiz Aragoneses er direktør.

Årsrapporten

Den spektakulære årgang 2023 betragtes i Spanien som en milepæl inden for elegance. Vinen er betydeligt mere afbalanceret end 2022 og fremstår som en moden, ualmindelig harmonisk version af 2020. Den charmerer med en stenet reduktion, en betagende renhed og en præcis symmetri af absolut verdensklasse.

97
/100

Parker om: Pena Caballera Garnacha

The single-vineyard 2023 Peña Caballera comes from a plot in the Marañones property, 1.5 hectares of old vines in the higher part of the estate at 850 meters in altitude and with a north-facing exposure, where the grapes achieved high ripeness. It fermented with full clusters and indigenous yeasts in concrete and had a very soft and extremely long maceration of almost four months (!), a kind of infusion trying not to extract tannins but the aromas and flavors that give it extra complexity and nuance. It matured in an oak foudre and is very spicy, with a moderate 13.8% alcohol (down from 15% in 2022), notes of forest floor, dry leaves and a Mediterranean whiff, with bitter cherries (amaro!). It's supple, juicy, fine-boned and sapid, stony and mineral, like liquid granite, with very fine tannins. This is a bargain for the quality and compared with the whites. 2,190 bottles and 100 magnums produced. It was bottled in April 2025.

96
/100

Suckling om: Pena Caballera Garnacha

Minty and herbal with blood orange and a touch of grapefruit, but austere in terms of fruit. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, more full than medium, with tight fruit and a herbal touch, incisive with an austere stony texture and compact, equally austere finish. This comes from a 1-hectare vineyard planted on granite soils. This has a long maceration of about 100 days with whole clusters in concrete. Drink or hold.

Smagsnotat

Weingut om: Pena Caballera Garnacha

Peña Caballera 2023 comes from a single plot located in the highest part of the Marañones estate. In just one and a half hectares, old Garnacha vines grow on granitic soils and rise above the rest of the vineyards in San Martín de Valdeiglesias. Located at an altitude of 880 meters above sea level and with a marked north orientation, this plot allows for slow ripening, which brings great complexity to the Garnacha grapes. Respectful viticulture and careful winemaking make it possible for this exceptional vineyard to express itself with total fidelity. The freshness of the Gredos mountain range. The balance of the Marañones landscape. The identity of an extraordinary plot. The florality and finesse of a unique Garnacha. Delicate and elegant finish. The fall of 2022 had mild temperatures, followed by a winter with rain and atypically mild temperatures for the winter season. Spring started early, bringing the vegetative cycle forward: weeping began in February and budbreak occurred in mid-April, ahead of the usual cycle. Flowering began in June and fruit set was reduced by heavy rains in late May and early June, which coincided with full bloom. June maintained moderate temperatures until July, when they began to rise. The grapes were harvested from August 22 to September 8. Conditions were optimal until early September, when heavy rains forced a brief pause. However, these rains did not affect the ripeness and quality of the grapes, and the harvest was completed satisfactorily. Among the undulating terrain of San Martín de Valdeiglesias, in the highest part of the Marañones estate, at an altitude of 880 meters, is this unique plot surrounded by cherry and fig trees. Garnacha vines on granitic soil up to 70 years old preside over a landscape of plant diversity among holm oaks, olive trees and blackthorns. The horizon of the Sierra de Gredos in the background preserves the freshness with which the vines ripen: with a marked north orientation and protected by the mountains, the slow evolution of the vine in each new cycle fills the grapes with complexity. Peña Caballera, barely a hectare and a half in size, is the maximum expression of the Garnacha grape in the area. The philosophy of extreme respect in viticulture and winemaking identifies the profile of Peña Caballera 2023. During the harvest, the bunches were picked by hand in 12 kg boxes. The selected grapes arrived at the winery whole and were macerated with their own stems for almost 120 days. Fermentation was carried out in a 2,100-liter concrete tank using indigenous yeasts. It was aged for 15 months on its own lees in a 1,500-liter French oak vat. For greater protection, the wine contains sulfites. It was bottled in the spring of 2025.

Min vinmager

Bodega Marañones

Som pioner inden for den moderne Gredos-stil med finesse og elegance producerer Bodega Marañones unikke, naturlige og karakterfulde vine fra Garnacha og Albillo Real.

Pena Caballera Garnacha 2023