Cesar Marquez Perez: La Salvacion Godello 2023
100
- Godello 100%
- weiß, trocken
- 13,0% Vol.
- Trinkreife: 2027–2044
- frische Säure
- mineralisch
- unkonventionell
- Lobenberg: 95+/100
- Parker: 95/100
- Suckling: 96/100
- Tim Atkin: 96/100
- Penin: 95/100
- Galloni: 95/100
- Spanien, Bierzo
- Allergene: Sulfite,
Abfüller / Importeur: Bodega Cesar Marquez, Plaza la fuente 1, Valtuille de abajo, Spanien
Heiner Lobenberg über:
La Salvacion Godello 2023
/100
La Salvación stammt aus einer nur rund einen Hektar kleinen Einzellage in 550 Metern. Uralter Rebbestand, über 100 Jahre alte Mencía die vor etwa 18 Jahren umgepfropft wurde auf Godello. Reine Godello, entrappt, dann schonend und sehr langsam auf einer pneumatischen Presse abgepresst und im 500 Liter Tonneau vergoren und ausgebaut. Schon die Nase schreit förmlich »Burgund!!« mit dieser durchdringenden, aber sehr feinen reduktiven Spannung. Feuerstein und perfekt eingebundenes, leicht rauchiges Holz trifft auf reife Limette, Zitronenschale, weißen Pfirsich und Zitronengras. Am Gaumen dann mit Limette und Amalfizitrone ein Mix aus grüner und gelber Zitrusfrucht. Dann auch Marille und helle Exotik von Passionsfrucht. Kalkige Mineralität gibt Textur und ordentlich Schub, die kristalline Säurestruktur lässt dabei die Augen schmal werden. Auch im Mund habe ich hier schlankes Burgund oder vielleicht Chablis, nicht Grand Cru Komplexität, aber mit einigen 1ers kann das hier sicher schon mithalten. Endet mit griffiger Salzigkeit und feiner, ätherischer Kräuternote von Salbei und Melisse im Nachhall. Schöne Länge, durchaus fordernd und komplex. Godello auf Spitzen-Niveau allemal!
Jahrgangsbericht
2023 war sehr warm, aber er ist deutlich kühler und balancierter als der noch heißere und trockenere 2022. Nicht so aufregend und extrem wie 2021, eher eine reife und harmonische Version von 2020. Und so ist 2023 durchaus eine Fortsetzung der so großen Jahrgänge seit 2019. Luis Gutierez, Parkers Mann für Spanien, fasst den Jahrgang 2023 anhand von Alvaro Palacios Weingütern ganz im Westen und ganz im Osten, somit Landesübergreifend so zusammen: 2023 was an even more generous crop than 2022 … the wines have better balance, and it doesn't feel like a warm year at all. In fact, the wines feel more like they come from a cool year. It's a vintage that has a tendency toward reduction, not as much as 2020, but still reductive. But it's an elegant, stony reduction...The quality of the 2023s is stunning. There is a level of precision, cleanliness, symmetry and elegance that, if the end of the élevage and the bottling goes as expected, I must conclude that 2023 might be the finest vintage ... There might be other individual wines that reach higher peaks, but as an overall portfolio, the vintage 2023 represents the strongest collection ever produced.
/100
Parker über: La Salvacion Godello
The white Godello 2023 La Salvación was produced with grapes from a one-hectare centenary plot in Arganza, the northernmost and cooler village in Bierzo, a plot on clay and slate that was regrafted from Mencía some 20 years ago. The destemmed grapes were pressed in a pneumatic press, and the juice fermented in 500-liter oak barrels after setting for 24 hours. It matured in those barrels for one year, with the lees but without bâtonnage. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.07 and 7.25 grams of acidity, meaning good ripeness and very good freshness and acidity. It's vibrant and very tasty, piercing and pungent, with a nice compromise between power and elegance. It's more direct, sharp and tasty but with restraint; it takes time to open up in the glass. 6,700 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2025.,,
/100
Suckling über: La Salvacion Godello
Dried lemons and herbs on the nose, with a subtle, savory edge. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, offering rich yet restrained white fruit layered with mineral tension. Very expressive, with plenty unfolding in the glass and a delicate saline note in the finish. Sourced from three parcels planted at around 700 meters in Arganza in Bierzo. Fermented in 500-liter French oak barrels. No malolactic fermentation. Drink or hold.
/100
Tim Atkin über: La Salvacion Godello
This is the very first white that César made back in 2015 from Godello grafted onto 100 year old Mencía vines in Arganza, in the very north of the region. It’s a wonderful expression of Godello, fermented and aged in 500L barrels. Subtle green apple and pear are layered over wet stone and a steely backbone. Serious acidity underpins the wine, perfectly balancing the richness on the palate. A wine of precision with a morish saline finish.
/100
Penin über: La Salvacion Godello
Leuchtendes Strohgelb. In der Nase ausdrucksvoll und mineralisch. Reifes Obst, blumig und feine Hefen. Im Mund voll, komplex, würzig, lang und elegant.
/100
Galloni über: La Salvacion Godello
The 2023 Godello La Salvación hails from Arganza, in the northern, mountainous reaches of Bierzo. It opens with a reductive, flinty note that gives way to the floral traits of the variety and a touch of apple. On the palate, this reveals power, energy and depth lifted by freshness and a soft, talc-like texture on the finish.
Weingut über: La Salvacion Godello
La Salvación is a godello, harvested from centenary strains that has grown between strains of mencía. Its name perfectly describes the desire to recover the centennial godello grapes that are forgotten in the vineyards after the harvest of the mencía. The centenarian godello strains are unusual in El Bierzo.,It should be added that the bunches of small size and maturation, which can occur 15 days before a godello of 30 years, promote this distinction. The frame of planting of these centennial vineyards is 1,20 m x 1,20 m. The yield of the old godello is very peculiar, the pressing of the grape does not reach 50% of its yield, compared to the mencía grape, which can reach up to 70%. La Salvación 2023 comes, like other vintages, from a single plot of Arganza, a municipality located in the North of the region, with more altitude and therefore freshness. The vineyard, 110 years old, constitutes the largest vineyard of old godello in Bierzo. After a dry 2022 throughout Spain, 2023 began with a very cold, rainy winter with strong winds, like those of our childhood. Frost and cold days lasted until spring, which advanced with warm days, threatening an early bud break. After a warm and rainy May, temperatures dropped again in June. Then came more rains and thunderstorms along with some very hot days. This weather made us especially vigilant to avoid the appearance of mildew. July and August were characterized by moderate temperatures. In September the grape harvest began, with plenty of grapes but not very large bunches. It was a vintage like the ones of yesterday; the rains made us harvest many days with waterproof suits. A year with a rainfall of almost 900 litres/m2 has given us wines with more fluidity, reminding us of the 2001 or 2021 vintages. Fresh, floral and more delicate wines than the previous vintage. The harvesting of the plot was the first week of September. Manual collection; destemming and pressing of the grape. Unlike previous vintages, no maceration is carried out before pressing. It ferments in barrels, without batonage, temperature control or added yeasts. After 12 months the barrels were emptied and the wine remained in a stainless steel tank for 4 months.
César Márquez
César Márquez ist der Neffe des langbärtigen Bierzo Überflieger Winzers Raul Perez. Der talentierte junge Mann braucht den Vergleich aber nicht zu scheuen, denn er ist selbst bereits eines der aufsteigenden Talente in der spannenden spanischen Weinszene. César studierte zwar 2007 Önologie an der Uni...