Oxer Wines – Rioja: Tartalo 2024

Oxer Wines – Rioja: Tartalo 2024

Tempranillo 87%, Viura 10%, Graciano 3%
rød, tør
13,5% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2030–2054
rig på tanniner
frugt-orienteret
struktureret
Lobenberg: 100/100
Parker: 98/100
Spanien, Rioja, Rioja Alavesa
Allergener: Sulfitter
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Tartalo 2024

100
/100

Tartalo kommer fra enkeltmarksvinmarken "Somo" i landsbyen Elvillar i Rioja Alavesa. En ren kalkstensvinmark på kun 0,7 hektar i ca. 600 meters højde. En blandet vinmark med vinstokke, der er over 100 år gamle, mest Tempranillo. Udbytte på mindre end 30 hektoliter pr. hektar. Høstet som et blandet sæt og delvist spontangæret som hele klaser i 1000 liters fade og modnet i Stockinger 600 liters fade. Det er kun anden årgang af denne nye topvin, men jeg er allerede sikker på, at den har, hvad der skal til for at blive det næste Rioja-ikon. Enorm tæthed og kraft, parret med burgundisk finesse og velsignet med et spændende naturligt touch ved siden af den sprudlende smag. Alt sammen i perfekt balance. Hvor får man ellers det? Den er helt unik i denne form. Modne vilde bær, grafit og kalksten, sorte kirsebær, viol og blodappelsin i næsen. Dybdefuld, jordagtig, men samtidig superfin og meget kompleks. I ganen er der et enormt skub fra de tætte tanninmasser. Masser af tannin, men så fint poleret og slet ikke tør, men simpelthen vidunderligt silkeagtig. Dertil dansende frugt af brombær, morbær, men også tobak og mørk chokolade og bitter appelsin i den lange finish. Så meget tryk fra denne rige frugt, samtidig med at den spændstige mineralitet skyder gennem vinen som en laser og stimulerer savlen. Grandiose sager! Desværre findes der kun et 600 liters Stockinger-fad af denne sjældenhed. Wow, jeg er virkelig begejstret.

98
/100

Parker om: Tartalo

The 2024 Tartalo comes from a plot planted with a field blend, 0.7 hectares planted in 1920 in the village of Elvillar (Rioja Alavesa) at 600 meters above sea level in the zone known as Barranco de San Julián on limestone soils that deliver no more than 3,000 kilos per hectare. This is the most calcareous vineyard he works. It's mostly Tempranillo with a little Viura and some scattered plants of Graciano. The grapes were picked early to avoid too high alcohol and fermented partly destemmed and partly whole clusters that were foot trodden with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, then the wine matured in 600-liter barrels for 10 months and periodically racked. This is very stony, earthy wine from very shallow soils, only 30 centimeters deep. The vines struggled and, despite their age, they are not very big, but that gives the wine incredible texture, and it's super dry and chalky, with fine granularity. The wine has the aromas of the place, full of aromatic herbs, rosemary and thyme. In 2024, this wine has lower alcohol than ever at 13%, with contained ripeness and a pH of 3.5. I've never seen it as chalky as this. He makes three barrels of this; two of them contribute to the blend of Kalamity, and the other one is bottled separately into this wine. There are some 900 bottles. It was bottled in September 2025.For Oxer Bastegieta, 2024 is a super vintage, fresher and finer-boned than 2023. He wants to emulate the old tradition of co-plantation and wines with character and freedom. There's a new red from Maturana Tinta, but it's always made, as he says, "my way," with much lower alcohol and surprisingly no pyrazines. He wants texture and freshness, which, for him, come from the cover crops, compost, microbiology of the soils, etc. He wants cleanliness, agility and precision in the wines. He has a co-plantation in the keyline system, 1.5 hectares in San Vicente de la Sonsierra (La Rad at 600 meters on very chalky soils) and 1.5 hectares in Leza and 700 meters in altitude, which he described as his legacy for the future.

Min vinmager

Oxer Wines – Rioja

Oxer Bastegieta er konstant på udkig efter gamle juveler. Han er både en stor visionær og en mand med en plan, med et vist øje for kvalitet og detaljer. Sådan blev vinmarkerne i Rioja Alavesa i Leza, Navaridas, San Vicente og Laguardia samt Cárdenas i Rioja Alta gradvist tilføjet. Næsten alle disse...

Tartalo 2024