Bodegas y Vinedos Ponce: Buena Pinta Moravia Agria 2023

ØKOLOGISK

: Moravia Agria 100%

: rød, tør; 13,0% Vol.; Drikkemoden: 2025–2041

: rig på tanniner; velsmagende & krydret; frisk og syrlig

: Lobenberg: 95/100; Jeb Dunnuck: 93/100; Parker: 92/100

: Spanien, Manchuela

: Allergener: Sulfitter,

Tapperi / Importør: BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS PONCE S.L., CTRA. CM-220, KM. 54,500, 16230 VILLANUEVA DE LA JARA-CUENCA, SPANIEN

Ren, oprindelig Moravia Agria, en kuriositet fra Manchuela. Findes næsten aldrig andre steder end i en blanding med Grenache eller Boal, men her er der en lille parcel på sand og granit. Højtliggende som alt andet her, hvilket understreger den store friskhed i denne druesort. Den minder meget om Cabernet Franc eller den galliske Caino, selv efter længere tids modning og flaskelagring. Frisk og vild og med tiden frodig og rig, kompleks og fuld af charmerende finesse. Balsamico, krydderier, grafit, krydderurter og rød frugt. Vinen blev lagret i næsten 1 år på 5000 liters træfade. Kun 12,5 % alkohol. Vent venligst 3 år i flasken, fordi vinen allerede har mange tanniner, men så er den også en vidunderlig one-off og giver en masse unik drikkeglæde.

Den spektakulære årgang 2023 betragtes i Spanien som en milepæl inden for elegance. Vinen er betydeligt mere afbalanceret end 2022 og fremstår som en moden, ualmindelig harmonisk version af 2020. Den charmerer med en stenet reduktion, en betagende renhed og en præcis symmetri af absolut verdensklasse.

Til årsrapporten

Jeb Dunnuck om: Buena Pinta Moravia Agria

Spicy and structured, the 2023 Bobal Moravia Agria is 100% varietal, fermented all whole-cluster on indigenous yeasts and aged 10 months in larger barrels. With only 8,000 bottles produced, it offers strawberry freshness within a context of moderate tannin and textural refinement, medium-bodied and enduringly fresh.

Parker om: Buena Pinta Moravia Agria

The 2023 Buena Pinta comes from a year when they did an even shorter pruning, harvested later and made a longer élevage. Ponce wanted to avoid the reductive character—which didn't bother me at all—and show a more balsamic and juicy profile that he tells me reminds him of a Cabernet Franc. Since 2022, it's only Moravia Agria, as it does not have any more Garnacha in the blend. Like most reds, it fermented with 100% full clusters in 4,500-liter oak vats and matured in two 2,500-liter oak foudre for 13 months. The foudres were second-use only, and the wine has some oak aromas and flavors. It has 13% alcohol with a pH of 3.3 and 6.3 grams of acidity and is vibrant and fresh. To me, the oak is too intrusive—aromas, flavors and texture—but hopefully the wine will absorb it with time; today, it's a bit of a question mark. 5,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2024. I also tasted a 2013, with 90% Moravia Agria and 11.6% alcohol, and it was surprisingly fresh and nuanced, with character.

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