Bodega Maranones: Pena Cruzada Albillo 2023

Bodega Maranones: Pena Cruzada Albillo 2023

ØKOLOGISK

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Albillo 100%
hvid, tør
13,0% Vol.
Drikkemoden: 2027–2042
frugt-orienteret
mineralsk
Lobenberg: 98/100
Parker: 95/100
Suckling: 95/100
Galloni: 93–95/100
Spanien, Madrid
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Pena Cruzada Albillo 2023

98
/100

Bourgogne! Jean Marc Rulot. Perfekt træ fra Winning. En blanding af strålende Chablis og moden Sauvignon Blanc, Vacheron? I hvert fald en super spændende, fascinerende næse, der på magisk vis trækker dig ind i glasset. På trods af træet er det ikke for meget: umoden mandarin møder grøn mango og abrikos, flint, røg, kridt. At lugte alene er nok! Overdådig frisk, sprød og moden i munden med en stor saltholdighed og rig gul frugt, masser af urter og blomster. Wow, den sprækker og sprudler og er samtidig utrolig velsmagende. Albillo Real fra Gredos? En ny oplevelse for mig, en sensation og virkelig imponerende og stor! -- Bodega Maranones i San Martin (Gredos-regionen, men meget tæt på Madrid), som blev grundlagt helt fra bunden i 2008 af den rige industrimand fra Madrid, José Fernando Cornejo, omfatter kun omkring 25 hektar af de mindste vinmarker (0,5 til maks. 2 hektar hver) i en højde af 650 til 900 meter. Maranones blev grundlagt for at bevise klassen af vinene fra Gredos. Granitjord, sten, granitsand og granitskifer, som er typisk for Gredos. Druesorterne Grenache og hvid Albillo Real. Bourgogne som forbillede. Grundlæggerne af Comando G, især Fernando Garcia, var involveret i købet af gamle vinmarker på mellem 60 og 100 år og i udformningen af vinmarkerne og kælderen. De første vine blev produceret i 2010, og i 2025 var der næsten 60.000 flasker. Grundlæggende er Maranones det mere burgundiske modstykke til Comando G i den varmere San Martin-region. Ekstrem polering og finesse med hyppig brug af hele klaser, spontan gæring og økologisk landbrug. Kun lidt småtræ. Reduktiv stil og ekstremt fine tanniner. Dansende finesse var målet. Grundlæggeren José Cornejo er stadig involveret i en rådgivende funktion på trods af salget til Alma Carraovejas-gruppen i 2021. Efter Fernando Garcias afgang, som stadig er involveret i en rådgivende funktion (total fokus på Comando G), er vinmageren den sympatiske Javi Ossian, mens Pedro Ruiz Aragoneses er direktør.

Årsrapporten

Den spektakulære årgang 2023 betragtes i Spanien som en milepæl inden for elegance. Vinen er betydeligt mere afbalanceret end 2022 og fremstår som en moden, ualmindelig harmonisk version af 2020. Den charmerer med en stenet reduktion, en betagende renhed og en præcis symmetri af absolut verdensklasse.

95
/100

Parker om: Pena Cruzada Albillo

Like the Picarana, the old Pies Descalzos white got a new name, as it comes from a place called Peña Cruzada, which the wine has been called since the 2022 harvest. The 2023 Peña Cruzada is from those 0.7 hectares of old vines on pink granite soils and sandy texture surrounded by Mediterranean forest. The full clusters were pressed and the juice fermented with the full lees in 500- and 600-liter barrels, where it matured for 10 months. It has a pale and bright yellow color, a clean and expressive nose of yellow fruit, pollen and a touch of aniseed and fennel. It's textured with a concentration of fruit and has unctuousness and plenty of flavors. It has freshness and is balanced, coming through as much fresher than your average Albillo Real, which they managed in the vineyard by protecting the bunches from the sun to keep more acidity in the grapes. It has a beautiful texture with the granularity of the granite, although it's a little more exuberant than the new Picuenco. 2,420 bottles and 100 magnums produced. It was bottled in August 2024.

95
/100

Suckling om: Pena Cruzada Albillo

An exciting wine, showing subtle macadamia, white fruit, minerals and a reticent wood influence that adds to the creaminess without any sweetness or toastiness. Quite transparent and supple, with fresh medium acidity contributing to the medium to full body. Smooth, composed mouthfeel and a fine and lengthy finish. Drink now or hold.

93–95
/100

Galloni om: Pena Cruzada Albillo

The 2023 Albillo Real Peña Cruzada Pies Descalzos from Paraje Marañones, San Martín de Valdeiglesias, Madrid, offers herbal notes, white peach, hints of fresh herbs and well-integrated oak. It is smooth, broad and moderately rich with moderate freshness and a touch of grip. The 2023 has a subtle saline finish and is slightly more concentrated than the 2022.

Smagsnotat

Weingut om: Pena Cruzada Albillo

Peña Cruzada 2023 comes from a small plot on the undulations of the Gredos border between the Marañones estate and San Martín de Valdeiglesias. The 0.7 hectares of old Albillo Real vines, its pink granite soil and the vineyard’s mesoclimate fill this vineyard with nuances. Its integration with the environment complements it in a unique way. An exceptional vineyard. Elegance and length. The expression of the pink granite of the Peña Cruzada plot. An exceptional balance between vineyard, viticulture, soil, climate and variety. The fall of 2022 had mild temperatures, followed by a winter with rain and atypically mild temperatures for the winter season. Spring started early, bringing forward the vegetative cycle: weeping began in February and budbreak of the albillo real occurred at the end of March. Flowering began in May and fruit set was optimal thanks to the weather conditions. On June 3, a hail storm partially affected the Marañones estate, slightly reducing yields. June maintained moderate temperatures until July, when they began to rise. The early harvest cycle led to an early Albillo harvest, beginning on August 1 and ending on August 10. This plot was harvested on August 6. Due to the high daytime temperatures, the grapes were harvested at night to preserve the quality of the grapes. Pink granite: The Peña Cruzada plot, with 0.7 hectares of Albillo Real, is part of the undulations on the edge of the Gredos mountain range, between San Martín de Valdeiglesias and the Marañones estate. The vines are more than 50 years old and are surrounded by forest and exceptional biodiversity, with their own balance in which climate, variety, soils and viticulture find an extraordinary harmony. The stony pink granite soils and the sandy textures of some areas facilitate organic viticulture and respect for the whole project. The gentle slope and the creeping growth of the old vines make up the identity of this unique vineyard. The homogeneity in the ripening of the vines of this plot allows the production of a wine with an unmistakable essence. The grapes are harvested by hand in 12 kilogram boxes. After pressing, the must ferments in used barrels of 228 and 600 liters capacity. After fermentation, it was aged for 10 months on its lees in the same barrels. For greater protection, the wine contains sulfites. It was bottled in autumn 2024.

Min vinmager

Bodega Marañones

Som pioner inden for den moderne Gredos-stil med finesse og elegance producerer Bodega Marañones unikke, naturlige og karakterfulde vine fra Garnacha og Albillo Real.

Pena Cruzada Albillo 2023