Wine&Spirits om:
Derthona Timorasso
Walter Massa, the man who rescued timorasso from oblivion in the 1980s, now farms 30 acres of the variety and makes five different bottlings, three from single crus. He refers to this wine as his village-level timorasso, combining grapes from many different plots, and he labels it Derthona, the ancient Roman name for the territory and a term Massa has trademarked, with the intention of eventually applying it to a new DOC. Like all of his timorassos, the 2017 Derthona aged on the lees in stainless-steel tanks, developing rich, honeyed flavors. The wine opens gradually, expanding into peach and apple tones lined with notes of roasted fennel and warm spice. 93/100
