Parker om:
Champagne La Côte aux Enfants Grand Cru Brut
Bollinger’s 2015 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants, disgorged in February 2025 with a dosage of four grams per liter, stands as the most harmonious iteration to date—a conclusion reaffirmed during a retrospective tasting that included every vintage produced from the vineyard’s northwest-facing slope, which boasts a steep 39% gradient and shallow soils that have been cultivated according to organic practices since 2009. Harvested at 11.2% potential alcohol, with meticulous selection to exclude herbaceous elements—a refinement made possible through vinification in small barrels rather than large tanks—the wine opens with a flamboyant bouquet evocative of red grapefruit zest, pear, red plum, mango and pastry notes. On the palate, it is full-bodied and concentrated, with a vibrant core of fruit supported by racy acidity and ample chalky extract. The finish is long, saline and resonant, marked by Pinot Noir phenolics that just amplify its mineral signature. Denis Bunner notes that sugar accumulation occurred rapidly in this vintage, outpacing aromatic development, yet the decision to delay harvest proved fortuitous—and I wholeheartedly concur. This is an extroverted, characterful expression that aligns beautifully with Bollinger’s house style, and while it can be drunk with considerable satisfaction in the near term, it promises a broad window of enjoyment.
