Parker om:
Champagne Comtes de Champagne Grands Crus Blanc de Blancs Brut
Taittinger’s 2013 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, disgorged in December 2023 with a dosage of nine grams per liter, is well worth seeking out. Derived from a long, slow ripening season marked by cool nights and an October harvest, it is slightly less acid-driven and a touch fleshier than the 2008, offering up a deep bouquet of nashi pear, lemon confit, freshly baked bread, almond paste and a gentle smoky reduction edge. On the palate, it is full-bodied and incisive, with a concentrated core of fruit, bright acids and considerable tension, culminating in a persistent, saline finish. While already indicative of its potential, its best days are still ahead, and it should continue to improve over the next two decades or more. Choosing a favorite between the 2013 and 2014 will be difficult, as both are strong editions of Comtes.