Galloni om:
Tyskland Kælder samleræske: Kælderæske "Von Den Grossen Lagen" 2020 0,75l hvid
Kirchspiel GG: Lime, grapefruit, lavender, roux and thyme combine for a haunting fragrance. Crisp, tangy, fresh apple joins the aforementioned elements on a polished, firm palate. The finish is chalky and stony, lengthened by piquancy of grapefruit pips. It's mouthwateringly saline and mouth-shakingly vibrant, bursting unexpectedly into a shower of citrus and apple juiciness. The overall impression here is of striking clarity and energy. This will be exciting to follow. (As usual, there was also a not-quite-legally-dry “RR” bottling from Kirchspiel this vintage, but I did not have an opportunity to taste it.) 94/100AbtsE GG: Lavender, thyme, iris, narcissus, lemon and grapefruit confront the nose. The polished, subtly silken palate impression is more coolingly green-herbal and sweetly suggestive in inner-mouth perfume than the assertive pungency that the aromas suggested. As usual for this always remarkable bottling, there is an amazing sense of clarity, vibrancy and lift, accompanied by a near-kaleidoscopic interaction of floral, herbal, citric and mineral elements. 95/100G-Max: Citrus zests, lavender, struck flint and crushed stone greet the nose, enticing a first sip that practically explodes in the mouth with its intense resonance and grip. Yet there is a certain sense of buoyancy and an openness to subtlety, as bittersweet floral perfume and nuttiness add to the wine’s compulsive appeal. The finish is strikingly reverberative, with a focused sense of penetration. Memorable though it is to experience now, time is needed for this remarkable Riesling to fulfill its potential. 97/100Morstein GG: The intimations of both chalk dust and saline notes on the nose faintly bring Chablis to mind. The polished palate displays both oyster shell and oyster innards in its meld of chalky, saline, herbaceous and mouthwateringly animal-savory elements, along with a shimmering sense of citrus and mineral interaction. Zesty lemon and piquant kumquat add to the striking persistence a wine suited to setting the tonsils vibrating and milking the salivary glands. 95/100 Hipping GG: Already on the nose, the savory herbal, meaty and mineral mélange here mouthwateringly reminds me of escargot, not to mention red Burgundies, which is a cause to wonder how such scents and flavors could possibly arise from these grapes. In terms of explicit fruit identity, the most one discerns here is fresh lemon, which however serves for more than enough bright juiciness to animate and refresh through a prodigious finish. There is a combination of underlying richness with spine-tingling electricity – to say nothing of intrigue – that will absorb you for hours (indeed years) if you can afford both the time and the wine. (For a bit about this wine’s vineyard origins, consult my reviews of the corresponding notes on the 2018 and 2014 bottlings.) 95/100
