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Riesling Bernkasteler Doctor Auslese *** Weiße Kapsel (Versteigerungswein)
The 2019 Bernkasteler Doctor Auslese *** (White Capsule) needs lots of aeration to open with a deep, rich and concentrated yet also pure and flinty, oaky-scented bouquet of ripe (tropical) stone fruits, crushed stones, minty and herbal notes as well as small and golden Riesling berries intertwined with sur lie aromas. Crystalline, refined and highly elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, dense, rich and juicy, vital and vibrantly fresh, tightly structured Doctor that builds up with enormous dimensions and terroir expression. The finish is highly intense, wide and powerful, still structured and enormously long, with crushed slate and refreshing lemon juice flavors.From all the Doctors that Molitor has produced since his inaugural 2016, the 2019 is the most complicated to understand. It starts almost dismissive, but just one day in the decanter helps a bit to detect some fruit aromas and more transparency. Even after a week, the wine is not where it is about to travel, but at least it gives an impression of its complexity and outstanding expressiveness. In fact, this Riesling is like an artwork from German expressionism. Its reception causes shuddering and pain, but it also compels admiration and speechlessness, and later, certainly enchantment. This wine contains so much drama, so much tension that will eventually dissipate like a terrible thundering, deafening, fear-inducing thunderstorm and leave nothing but clarity, naïve innocence and enchantment.The 2019 is possibly Molitor's greatest Berncastel Doctor to date, certainly the most challenging. It has yet to mature to perfection. This will require perfect storage conditions and will nevertheless take years: not 5, not even 10, but rather 15 or even 20. It probably will not die of old age in our lifetime. Only you can decide whether the investment is worth it—the wine, like its predecessors, will be auctioned off and will certainly cost considerably more than 1,000 euros per bottle. But whenever you want to enjoy it (or work on it), use a Zalto Bordeaux glass or any similar caliber, otherwise the wine will hunt you down and not vice versa. Tasted over eight days in May 2021 (AP 02 20). 100/100
