Parker om:
Champagne Roc Solare Coteaux du Sézannais Extra Brut Assemblage Galets de Silex
Avenay Val d’Or were replanted (with Pinot Meunier from Cuis set to produce a different bottling in the future). As a result, Adrien decided to isolate the vines from Sézannais in this new standalone cuvée. Predominantly composed of the 2021 vintage, with a 30% perpetual component, it was disgorged in September 2024 with a dosage of three grams per liter. The grapes are sourced from four plots in two villages—Barbonne-Fayel and Fontaine-Denis—planted in the 1970s by Adrien’s grandfather. The blend is heavily Chardonnay-based, with the remaining 10% Pinot Noir. It is vinified entirely in barrels (around one-third new), in line with the rest of the estate’s wines. “It’s a warm terroir,” observes Dhondt, noting the deeper clay and pebbles of silex, which emit a flinty aroma when struck together. In the glass, the wine reveals a complex bouquet of lemon zest, lychee, pine nut, iodine and smoke. A full-bodied and deep wine, it boasts striking concentration and almost electric acidity, shaped by the cool growing season. “The aim is to showcase the warmth of the place, but the profile of the 2021 vintage restrained it,” explains Dhondt. Everything is relative, though, as this wine is more expressive and slightly richer than his two other non-vintage offerings from the Côte de Blancs. The decision to introduce this wine into the range is commendable, as it integrates seamlessly with the rest of the portfolio. With a start like this to a tasting, there’s no doubt that the winemaker, once dubbed the best young vigneron, has matured and is now producing the best wines of his career.
