Companhia de Vinhos dos Profetas e dos Villões: Listrão dos Profetas 2022

: Listan Blanco 100%

: hvid, tør; 12,5% Vol.; Modenhed til at drikke: 2024–2039

: frisk syrlighed; mineral

: Lobenberg: 95–96/100; Parker zu 2021: 93+/100; Jancis Robinson zu 2021: 17,5/20

: Portugal, Madeira

: Allergener: Sulfitter,

Tapperi / Importør: Companhia de Vinhos dos Profetas e dos Villões, Tapada da Ajuda, No 84 1D, Isa, Inovisa, Portugal

100 procent Listrão er navnet på den samme druesort på Porto Santo (en naboø til Madeira), som hedder Palomino Fino i Jerez og Listan Blanco på Tenerife. Porto Santo har en særlig funktion i øgruppen Madeira, da der ikke er nogen bjerge her, hvilket betyder, at regn er meget sjælden. Vinstokkene er over 80 år gamle og vokser på fattig, kalkholdig sandjord med lidt ler. Modnet i ti måneder i brugte, neutrale franske barriques. Havets ubarmhjertige indflydelse kan genkendes fra den allerførste duft. Salt, østersskaller og lidt kombu, vi er næsten ved et umami-indtryk her. Delikat røgede, let reducerende smagsnuancer bliver nøddeagtige efter et øjeblik i glasset og blander sig med citrusfrugter og gule stenfrugter. Typisk for dette spændende projekt fra geniet Antonio Macanita er roen og sammenfletningen af den delikate reduktion. I munden er den varme, næsten silkeagtige fornemmelse af Listrao og den varme ø tydelig. Igen er det modne citrusfrugter og østersskaller, der træder frem. En vin for absolutte terroir-fans! Der findes kun 2.800 flasker. Fænomenalt god, hvor end Antonio Macanita har fingrene nede i kagen, bliver resultatet med garanti en spændende vin.

Parker zu 2021 om: Listrão dos Profetas

The 2021 Listrão dos Profetas Vinho do P. Santo is all Listrão (a.k.a. Palomino Fino) aged for 10 months in used French oak. It comes in nicely dry and at 12.4% alcohol. This is vaguely similar to the winery's Caracol in this report, with perhaps more cashews than almonds, but here the texture is more sensual. That might be the biggest difference between them. Neither is a lush or rich wine, and both rely on acidity and structure more than a fruity demeanor. The Caracol can seem a bit brighter, while this struck me as slightly richer; however, it is close, and all that is relative. There are still interesting flavor nuances here, like those toasted nuts, and the acidity is well integrated. It's hard to pick between the two, as they are different sides of the same coin, but if pressed, I'd take this first. Ultimately, the answer will depend on how they develop and whether there is further improvement. This should age pretty well, but let's be conservative for the moment. There were 2,800 bottles produced. 93+/100

Jancis Robinson zu 2021 om: Listrão dos Profetas

Very pale gold. And smells rich and golden, almost orangey, but also wild and spicy. Intense, high-acid citrus, quince and cedar flavours on the palate, remarkable depth of flavour at just 12.5% alcohol. More citrus tension than the bigger 2020 (which had 13.5% alcohol). Searing yet harmonious freshness and a long salty finish. The oak is barely noticeable in terms of flavour but seems to help balance the intense freshness, adding a touch of spice and a more complete texture. Quite different from the 2020 but just as delicious and persistent. 17,5/20

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