Mouton Rothschild: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru 2023

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru 2023

Begrænset

Trækasse

Til vinbonden

Cabernet Sauvignon 93%, Merlot 7%
rød, tør
13,5% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2033–2063
Pakket ind i: 1 OHK
voluminøs og kraftfuld
rig på tanniner
Lobenberg: 98–100/100
Jane Anson: 98–100/100
Suckling: 98–99/100
Decanter: 98/20
Tim Atkin: 98/100
Jeff Leve: 97–99/100
Colin Hay: 97–99/100
Galloni: 96–99/100
Neal Martin: 96–98/100
Jeb Dunnuck: 96–98/100
Frankrig, Bordeaux, Pauillac
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru 2023

98–100
/100

93 procent Cabernet Sauvignon og syv procent Merlot. Alkoholindholdet er 13,5 volumenprocent. Røget næse med rig kirsebærsmag. Sorte kirsebær, lidt røde kirsebær og surkirsebær - alle nuancer. Lidt trækul nedenunder, masser af violer og lakrids, men det hele er ikke sødt, men snarere sublimt og intenst. Masser af blåbærskind, brombær og cassis i smagen med en chilikrydrethed, der virker maskulin. Vinen har ret meget knald og overraskende lidt sødme i midten. Meget klassisk stil, som jeg aldrig ville have forventet i 2023. Det er en årgang med en høj Cabernet-orientering, ligesom sidste gang jeg fik den i 2010. Så vinen minder mig også mere om 2010 end den nuværende årgang med det indbyggede lækkerhedsgen. Det er bestemt ikke tilfældet med Mouton. Den er lang, intens og fuld af sort bærfrugt, fuld af maskulin tannin. En meget usædvanlig vin for denne årgang. Clerc Milon og Mouton er begge meget på den klassiske bølge. Vinen står i minutter. Mouton Rothschild er absolut en fortsættelse og symbiose af 2010 og 2021 med stor friskhed og massiv mineralitet. En helt anden vin i 2023, meget maskulin, lidt bitter. Friskheden er der, strukturen er der, balancen er fantastisk, tanninstrukturen er massiv. Men igen, det er ikke denne erotiske, hedonistiske sødme fra årgangen, men en meget klassisk, maskulin Bordeaux. En grand vin i den gamle stil. Den har brug for tid. Stor, men meget anderledes.

Årgangsrapport

Årgang 2023 Rhone: En årgang på en knivsæg! Det tog kun et par dage for året at svinge mellem en "Grand Millésime" og en "Millésime complexe". Heldigvis forhindrede den "klassiske" vinter, som var præget af ret hård kulde, at knopperne sprang for tidligt og dermed enhver risiko for forårsfrost. Den følgende vegetationscyklus bragte regelmæssig og heldigvis rigelig nedbør. Men de deraf følgende svampesygdomme satte vinbønderne under pres! Erfaringerne fra 2018-årgangen med alvorlig meldug, som vinbønderne stadig husker meget godt, sikrede dog, at de bedste vinbønder var i stand til at begrænse dette svampetryk med erfaring og en masse hårdt arbejde. Disse vinbønder gik derfor roligt og med gode vandreserver ind i sommersæsonen med udsigt til en stor høst af høj kvalitet. Hvad mere er, og det er sjældent, så velsignede sommeren endnu en gang vinbønderne med lidt mild nedbør. Den 15. august var vinmarkerne i Rhône sunde og grønne. Vinbønderne gned sig i hænderne, da alt tydede på en "Grand Millésime". Desværre besluttede Moder Natur, som så ofte i de senere år, noget andet i nogle dele af 2023. I et par dage blev vinmarkerne i Rhône ramt af en ekstrem hedebølge. Druerne på unge vinstokke og unge terroirer havde næppe en chance. En total stilstand i vinmarken. Kun de rigtig gamle Vieilles Vignes med lavt udbytte, på beskyttede og gamle terroirer, fandt modstandskraft til at bringe deres druer til optimal modenhed. Katastrofen blev således kun delvist afværget, idet kun meget gamle vinstokke på de bedste terroirer gav grandiose resultater, men samlet set på tværs af alle yngre vinmarker er kvaliteterne virkelig mere end heterogene, selv i de etablerede og bedste vinkældre... En storslået, meget spids top af pyramiden og en masse blandede resultater nedenunder. Endnu en gang har det omhyggelige udvælgelsesarbejde i vinmarken båret frugt! Det sydlige Rhône: Paradoksalt nok viser hvidvinene stor livlighed, friskhed og aromatisk-mineralsk balance. Smagen er strålende og harmonisk. Uventet og fantastisk. - Kvaliteten af de røde vine varierer derimod meget fra druesort til druesort. Stik imod alle forventninger klarer syrah-vinene med moderat frugt sig overraskende godt. Vinene fra meget gamle "Vieux Grenache" er vidunderligt rappe og med stor præcision, et fantastisk år for meget gamle vinstokke. Ung Grenache led dog meget. Det nordlige Rhône: Her har hvidvinene en vis lighed med de vidunderlige sydlige hvidvine, selv om tætheden er endnu mere udtalt, fantastiske resultater... Men kvaliteten af de røde vine varierer fra appellation til appellation og endda inden for samme appellation, afhængigt af vinstokkenes alder og terroiret. En årgang, der får os til at tænke enormt meget på superårgangen 2016 med de få virkelig vellykkede og store vine i toppen, men kun der. Og for det nordlige af det nordlige gælder "Spéciale!": Saint Joseph, Condrieu og Cote Rôtie viser nogle af århundredets vine.

98–100
/100

Jane Anson om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

High Cabernet, and the grape is dominant not just in blend but character, totally delicious, with tension, flesh, and confidence, building layers of black fruits, graphite, cocoa bean, espresso, pomegranate and smoked earth throughout the palate. When Cabernet works at Mouton, it is hard to beat, and it's on full display in 2023. One of my clear wines of the vintage. Of any vintage. 100% new oak for ageing. 40% grand vin, harvest September 7 to 30.

98–99
/100

Suckling om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

This is the most structured Mouton since the great 2016, with tannins that start slowly and then take off. It’s muscular and toned. It’s full-bodied but doesn’t come across too heavy. It builds up in intensity and goes on and on and on. It just keeps expanding. I took a double take here. 93% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot.

98
/20

Decanter om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

Gorgeous red and black fruit on the nose, ripe strawberries, cherries and blackcurrants, really fruit forward and expressive, not so much on the mineral or floral side. Smooth and supple, this is agile and has great movement. A sense of life, depth and richness, but this is so suave. The fruit and tannins fill the mouth but with wonderful coolness - blueberry and crisp cherry. Lots of liquorice and wet stones also come through; graphite, chalk, mint, a touch of toastiness on the finish. It has flashes of exoticism, as well as finesse. Structure and seriousness but with bounce, full of texture and nuance. Tannins have built a broad wine and this is a real success with lots of energy and vibrancy throughout but with no harsh acidity or too lean tannins. Stylish, characterful and executed very well. 11% press wine, last year was 17%. 93% Cabernet in the blend, second highest in history after 2010 which was 94%. 75 IPT. 40% grand vin production. A potential 100-point wine.

98
/100

Tim Atkin om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

The power and quality of the fruit here is so great that it is managing to suppress the new oak (100%) which can only be a good thing and a testament to the power of Cabernet Sauvignon in this amazing terroir. Takes several swirls of the glass before even wanting to raise to the lips. Violet and cinnamon with lush and almost-sweet bramble jelly and blackcurrant conserve. Black cherries and cloves too. There is a note of savoury forest and sweet earth adding complexity. Once in the mouth the wine explodes with power and densely layered flavour. The tannins are formidable (in every sense) but they are cosseted by a jacket of pure pristine black fruit. The acidity feels high (but isn't especially - pH3.79) but it has a fresh juiciness to it which makes the mouth water. The layers of fruit seem to lap away continuously on the very expansive finish. It's very Mouton - simultaneously Pauillac and exuberant but manages a degree of elegance which even the '22 here did not, while still having the same degree of glossiness and power. A wonderful wine in every way, it feels as though it may even be approachable in relative youth (atypically for the vintage) maybe at fifteen years.

Smagsnotat
97–99
/100

Jeff Leve om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

Cuban cigars, blackberries, flowers, smoke, espresso, spice, fruitcake, licorice, roasted nuts, and currants are a treat in the perfume. The palate offers layers of energetic, long, deep, fruits with a racy edge. The wine builds as it lingers with the fruit moving from red, to black, and back to red, with a refreshing sprig of mint, a touch of chocolate, and a dash of spice, adding to the complexity. The key to the vintage initial heat spell in August helped propel the grapes to phenolic ripeness. The ability to wait for the moment of their choice, allowing for a longer hangtime for the Cabernet played a major role this year. The wine blends 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Merlot. Only 2010 had more Cabernet in the blend. 13.3% ABV, 3.79 pH. The harvest took place September 7 - September 30. Drink from 2030-2065. 98-100 Pts.

Smagsnotat
97–99
/100

Colin Hay om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

(Pauillac; 93% Cabernet Sauvignon; 7% Merlot; 13.3% alcohol; pH 3.79; the old-vine yields here were above the 10 year average for Mouton; tasted with Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy at Clerc-Milon). Very floral. Crushed rose petals, fresh rose petals, rose water and iris. Black cherries and brambles, damson too. Black pepper. Candlewax and candle smoke from the cathedral hinting perhaps at the gothic cathedral architecture of the palate to come. Walnut and olive oil. Chiselled. Incredible texturally. Broader than Le Petit Mouton but with something of the same kaleidoscope of velvety layers imparting a great sensation of depth. But this is deceptive as it’s so glacial, glassy and mirror pool. I love, too, the hint of blackcurrant that appears like a phantom from the lake just before the finish. A wine with a staggeringly dynamic freshness, almost a whirlpool of upwelling Cabernet cassis disrupting the cool tranquillity of the surface that we encounter first. So soft and gracious. Beautifully composed. And yet thrilling and utterly captivating at the same time.

96–99
/100

Galloni om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

The 2023 Mouton Rothschild is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintages on the Left Bank. Its balance of intense, super-concentrated fruit and equally imposing structure is spellbinding. Dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, pencil shavings and dried herbs gain intensity in the glass. I especially admire its vertical build and overall energy. This is an exciting young Mouton endowed with palpable dynamic energy. It's a superb effort from the team led by Technical Director Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy.

Smagsnotat
96–98
/100

Neal Martin om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

The 2023 Mouton Rothschild was picked from September 7 to 30 and contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, the second highest ever (after the 2010). Matured entirely in new oak as usual, this has an intense, floral bouquet with violet petals infusing the black fruit and touches of licorice loitering just off stage—very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with extremely refined tannins. Focused and harmonious, it’s velvety smooth with a long and tender finish that has more crispness than the 2022. In fact, I might ultimately end up preferring this over the 2022…it will be interesting finding out in the future!

96–98
/100

Jeb Dunnuck om: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru

Pulled from just 40% of the production, the 2023 Château Mouton Rothschild is based on 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot that will see 18 months in new barrels. Tasting like the blood of Cabernet with its smoky red, black, and blue fruits, tobacco leaf, graphite, and cedar-driven aromatics, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a pure, polished, layered mouthfeel, beautiful concentration, and ripe, velvety tannins. Not the massive style of the 2022, it’s more in line with the 2016. This rich, elegant, seamless 2023 will need a decade to hit its prime.

Min vinmager

Mouton Rothschild

Sammen med Lafite og Latour var Château Mouton Rothschild i århundreder ejet af "prinsen af vinstokkene", markisen Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur. Efter nogen tid i Baron de Branes besiddelse fik Château Mouton Rothschild sit nuværende navn, da det blev købt af Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild i 1853....

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru 2023