Billecart Salmon: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut 2009

Billecart Salmon: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut 2009

Vinklub

Begrænset

Til vinbonden

Pinot Noir 100%
hvid, tør
Modnet
Fermentering på flaske
Perling
12,5% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2025–2040
mineral
eksotisk & aromatisk
fuld & rund
Lobenberg: 98–99/100
Galloni: 98/100
Suckling: 98/100
Decanter: 96/20
Parker: 96/100
Jeb Dunnuck: 96/100
Jancis Robinson: 18,5/20
Frankrig, Champagne, Vallée de la Marne
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut 2009

98–99
/100

Clos Saint-Hilaire bærer navnet på skytshelgenen for Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Billecart-Salmons hjemsogn. Det er husets bedste cru, høstet fra en lukket vinmark på lige under en hektar. Det er ren Pinot Noir, og vinstokkene blev plantet i 1964. Vinen er unikt produceret og lagret i en cuverie direkte i vinmarken. Basisvinen er udelukkende blevet modnet på træfade, siden cuvéen blev skabt i 1995. Doseringen holdes altid meget lav, i dette tilfælde lige under 2 gram, selv om den er mærket som Brut. Den degorgeres i maj 2023 efter næsten 15 år på gæren. Denne enestående vin har allerede så meget ekstrakt på grund af sin enorme kraft og trælagring, at den næppe har brug for tilsat sukker. Næsen er uhyre kompleks, rig og flerlaget med aromaer af blå skovbær, masser af cassis, røde augustæbler, nellike og kanel samt lidt surdej, mandelmel og mandarin. En symfoni, der fortsætter i munden. Skubber sig hen over ganen med al den kraftfulde elegance, der kendetegner Pinot Noir, en blid kæmpe. Nøddeagtig og krydret med fine konditornoter, rød citrus og kandiseret appelsinskal. Der er også lidt lakrids og så en masse salt og kridt i eftersmagen. Den har et mineralsk punch i sin generøse, smidige tekstur. En vin med imponerende overdådighed og længde, hvis fine smag bliver hængende i munden i flere minutter. Der er 4800 flasker af 2007 Saint-Hilaire, som leveres med en særlig træetiket. Fantastisk for elskere af den elegante Billecart-stil, rien ne va plus.

98
/100

Galloni om: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut

The 2009 Extra Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is stellar. I can’t remember a young Clos Saint-Hilaire with this much sheer immediacy. Then again, we are talking about 2009. Blood orange, spice, gingerbread and new leather play off a core of vibrant, red-toned Pinot fruit. Blocking the malolactic fermentation further emphasizes energy. The 2009 finishes with mind-blowing purity and exceptional finesse. This is the first vintage with some of the production bottled in magnum. The essence of Pinot. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2024.

98
/100

Suckling om: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut

This Champagne is wonderfully rich on the nose, seducing with aromas of delicious yellow nectarines, sourdough, applesauce, white flowers and raspberries, alongside toast, tobacco and a hint of white truffles. It’s layered and generous with very fine, very soft bubbles. Already approachable, yet with subtle power and bright acidity to age for a long time. Fantastic length. Pinot noir from an enclosed, 1-hectare parcel of vines in Mareuil-sur-Ay planted in 1964. No malolactic. Over 13 years on the lees. 2 g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

96
/20

Decanter om: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut

Billecart-Salmon's sheltered walled garden of Pinot Noir in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ has really come into its own in 2009, yielding a wine with all the intensity and volume that this cuvée tends to carry, but held in a more juicy, less firmly drawn structure than the preceding vintages. Indeed the soft generosity of 2009 seems to play to this wine's strengths. The end result is the most approachable and downright enjoyable Clos St-Hilaire of recent times, effortlessly carrying all its fruit of fresh fig, dried pear, roasted red plum and apricot kernel with heady baklava notes and darker, complex aromas of sweet walnut and cocoa. There's a very welcome shot of bright, malic acidity which which pulls this expansive, warm-hearted Champagne into focus beautifully.

96
/100

Parker om: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut

Billecart-Salmon’s 2009 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, disgorged in January 2024 with a dosage of two grams per liter, is showing even more impressively than it did when I tasted it with only a year on cork after disgorgement. The bouquet is deep and expressive, revealing notes of dried apricot, pear, blanched almond and orange oil, mingled with cherry plum and a touch of Madagascar vanilla. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied and rich yet incisive, its amplitude deftly counterbalanced by racy acidity before culminating in a persistent, citrus-tinged finish that underscores the wine’s fresh, tight-knit profile—enhance by its non-malolactic style.

96
/100

Jeb Dunnuck om: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut

The 2009 Champagne Le Clos Saint Hillaire pours a copper/straw color with depth and offers notes of red fruit, bitter almond, toasted nuttiness, toasty black cherry, Dr. Pepper, orange, grapefruit, brothy umami, mushrooms, and tobacco. Full-bodied, it's savory and mouthwatering, with a chalky, pithy texture that is chiseled and ripe, with a spicy mousse. A rich vintage but very well balanced, it has outstanding length and persistence on the palate with good focus that keeps it dialed in. A contemplative and cigar-type wine with a long sensation, drink it over the coming 20 years. One hundred percent barrel-fermented, they only bottle when the result of the vin clair is good; they choose to bottle or not to bottle the wine based on selection and the prise de mousse. Disgorged in January 2024 with 2 grams per liter dosage. They are holding back their 2008, which they plan to release, but this vintage will come first.

18,5
/20

Jancis Robinson om: Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut

Only the 10th edition of this unique single-vineyard champagne from a small, 1-ha, walled plot behind the winery in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ planted with Pinot Noir in 1964. (The inaugural vintage was 1995.) Vinified entirely in oak casks and aged on lees and only just released after ageing for 15 years on lees. Disgorged early 2024. Dosage 2 g/l. Deep golden straw colour. Extremely complex, mildly pungent nose with layers of sandalwood and kumquats and obviously considerable autolysis but it’s still extremely fresh. Quite a triumph! And not a copy of another style of champagne. Really intense yet refreshing enough to enjoy as an (admittedly luxurious) aperitif. Scrumptious!

Min vinmager

Billecart Salmon

Billecart Salmon er en absolut legende i Champagne. Familiens vingård har produceret champagner i verdensklasse i over 200 år. Champagnerne lagres på bærmen i mindst 3 år, mindst dobbelt så længe som foreskrevet, og årgangschampagnerne endda i over 10 år! Alligevel er champagnerne fra Billecart...

Champagne Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut 2009