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Sammlerbox 2023: A Piece of Lafite History: 1988 Ch.Lafite-Rothschild- 1990 Ch.Lafite-Rothschild
1988: This was a vintage that remained tight and closed for a long time. They are just starting to drink this at the chateau apparently, as Salin says it is their dinner wine right now. The salinity is coming through, giving a sappy grip through the mid palate, the effortless racy elegance of an older Cabernet Sauvignon with its truffles, smoked cedar, its grilled black fruits. Colour wise this is very much still intact, just a slight bricking at the edges. A lovely example of how you should never give up on wines from great estates – there will always be a moment when the terroir will out, as we saw on recent tastings of the 1975. The 1988 is certainly having one of those moments, and its long finessed finish should be savoured. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon. 96/100 *** 1989: Beautiful, rich and still extremely young, this is Lafite at its gulpable, elegant, sculpted, age-defying best. Deeply-spiced cassis notes are joined by touches of cedar - the result of a dry year that saw one of the earliest harvests since 1898. The grapes were picked with high alcohol and ripe tannins and they have absolutely lasted, and will continue to do so. The tannins are cradling the fruit, barely perceptible and yet still fully in control. 98/100 *** 1990 : This is an elegant, balanced Lafite that remains mouthwatering and juicy on the finish. It is not the most immediately impressive of the 1990 firsts, but then when does Lafite ever try to shout the loudest? Instead, it is all about a quiet but relentless building of layers, with brambled black fruits, graphite, cold ash and soft leather alongside a spicier rosemary and clove edging. Gilbert Rokvam was the technical director at this time, working with owner Baron Eric de Rothschild. Harvest began on September 13, and the scorching summer temperatures were compared by the property to 1947 and 1949. 95/100